India: Jamia Masjid & the Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir

Srinagar, a city of ancient Mughal gardens, picturesque lakes and floating villages, is the capital of Kashmir, India. After enjoying the cool weather and majestic mountain views of Gulmarg, we made our way back to Srinagar to experience the city.

Previous entry: Picturesque views in Gulmarg, Kashmir

We went straight to the Jamia Masjid, the grand mosque of Kashmir in its old city built by Sultan Sikandar Shah Kashmiri and completed in 1402AD. The mosque was destroyed several times by fire. And the current one, inspired by Indo-Saracenic architecture, is a quadrangle with a charming courtyard garden and four minarets with pyramidal roofs.

From the courtyard, you can see the old Durrani Fort built on top of Hari Parbat Hill. We drove close to the fort as me made our way around Dal Lake. There were interesting mosques at the foot of the hill which I wish we had time to explore.

Just looking outside the van window kept us busy as we observed interesting facets of local life in Srinagar.

Our next stop was Nishat Bagh, a terraced Mughal garden built in 1633AD. We visited just at the right time as the late afternoon sun highlighted the vibrant colors of this ancient garden. Behind the garden are the Zabarwan Mountains.

Many locals visit the garden to relax and enjoy the beautiful flora. It's not uncommon to see groups seated together in colorful dresses.

Before proceeding to the house boats on Dal Lake where we were to stay for the next two nights, we had tea while watching the sunset at Vivanta by Taj, a charming resort build on top of a hill with grand views of Dal Lake and the communities around it.

Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

India: Picturesque views in Gulmarg, Kashmir

The heartland of winter sports in India, the hill station town of Gulmarg in Kashmir is a popular tourist destination among locals who want to escape the heat down south. In fact, it is said to host some of the longest and highest ski slopes as well as the highest gondola in Asia up the Afarwat Hills of the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalayas. I realized when I looked at a map, that it was just within miles of the border between India and Pakistan.

We had arrived in Gulmarg after a scenic two-hour ride from Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. We checked-in at the recently-opened Khyber Himalayan Resort before proceeding to Strawberry Valley to enjoy picturesque views of Gulmarg.

The sunset was spectacular and we were quite thankful the sun appeared despite having most of the day cloudy and at times drizzling. The charm of Gulmarg's quaint architecture with the Himalayas as a backdrop and the sun setting behind them was enough to elicit oohs and aahs.

The Kashmiri dinner that followed our sunset experience was memorable as well. We had Mughlai Chicken (chicken cooked in a thick and rich gravy made from ground almonds with cinnamon, cardamon, coriander, cumin, chili and garam masala), a Central Asian dish that was introduced to India during the time of the Mughals; and Vegetable Navratan Curry (Navratan means nine gems) which gets its name from the nine vegetables, fruit and nuts used to make the dish: cashew nuts, potatoes, beans, carrots, peas, bell pepper, cauliflower and pineapple (although it has garlic, onions and tomatoes as well).

The next day, the sun was out again. After breakfast amid views of evergreens (I could imagine this would look even prettier during winter), we proceeded to the Gulmarg Gondola, Asia's highest, and rode from Gulmarg (2,700m) up to Apharwat (3,980m).

There's actually a small military outpost on top. The military and police are actually everywhere in Kashmir. And seeing them is definitely part of the visitor experience. On top were different kinds of wild flowers. It's a reminder that Gulmarg literally means Meadow of Flowers.

After arriving back in Gulmarg, we drove down to Srinagar to continue our brief journey around Kashmir. You could actually go horseback riding around Gulmarg. But we saved that activity for Sonamarg where views are even more picturesque!

Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

Kashmir: From Srinagar to Gulmarg

Kashmir is often called Heaven on Earth. Indeed, the four days we spent in Kashmir was Heaven owing to its pleasant weather, spectacular scenery and colorful heritage and culture.

Day 1 in Kashmir, India: Just as soon as we arrived in Dehli, we were again at the Indira Gandhi International Airport to catch our Jet Airways flight to Srinagar in Kashmir. It was a short local flight but we were still served savory sandwiches (vegetarian or spicy chicken) on board. As soon as we arrived in Srinagar Airport, we drove to Gulmarg, a hill station and resort town two hours from Srinagar.

A mosque in Tangmarg

Gulmarg, which literally means Meadow of Flowers, is a popular skiing destination during winter. On the way, we saw one charming mountain village after another. Our late lunch stop (by now we were really hungry since the Philippines is ahead by 2 hours and 30 minutes) was at Tangmarg, one hour in between Srinagar and Gulmarg.

While waiting for our meal to be served, I walked around town and saw a quaint mosque (mosque architecture is very different in Kashmir) and a village down the valley.

Seekh Kebab

Gushtaba

Our lunch was a bevy of Kashmiri dishes which included Seekh Kebab (minced meat grilled on skewers in a tandoor) and Gushtaba (minced mutton balls in tangy yogurt gravy). It took us another hour to reach Gulmarg. But not before enjoying the picturesque views along the way!

At Strawberry Valley, locals play a game of cricket, a popular sport in India

As soon as we arrived in Gulmarg, we checked-in at the luxurious Khyber Himalayan Spa and Resort which is not even a year old! Too bad we only stayed there for a night. After dropping our stuff, we explored Gulmarg, particularly a place called Strawberry Valley, which is quite popular with hikers.

Locals picnic by the roadside in Gulmarg

Gulmarg is a favorite family getaway for locals in India. So you'd often see groups picnicking by the roadside or enjoying the children's park by the lake. Pony rides are also popular in Gulmarg. But we decided to do the activity in Sonamarg where the views are even more spectacular. Before sunset, we dropped by the downtown area. More on Gulmarg in my next post. Photos on my India trip here.

Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

India: Taj Mahal & Agra's Red Fort

Despite having barely recovered from a trip to Nepal, I found myself at the airport two days later leaving for another adventure. Jet Airways and Go India Journeys had invited me to fly to India to visit some of the country's most iconic attractions. We flew to Hong Kong where we took the Jet Airways flight to New Delhi. It was nearly midnight when our group arrived at the Hilton New Delhi Janakpuri, our home for the next two nights.

We didn't have much sleep since we had to leave for Agra first thing in the morning. But spirits were high since we were visiting the famed Taj Mahal. Agra was a four and a half hour drive on the new highway from Delhi (which includes having to navigate through Delhi's slow traffic to get to it). The Taj Mahal is a mausoleum built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz Mahal. He is also buried there.

So much has been said about the Taj Mahal, So I'll start with some things to remember before visiting the mausoleum:

(1) It's best to visit on a weekday since locals crowd the Taj Mahal during weekends. Note also that it is closed on Fridays. Also try to come during opening time for smaller crowds.

(2) There are many items which are prohibited inside the Taj Mahal. It's best to leave your bags in the hotel or the bus, rather than have to leave them in the locker area. Best if you bring only your mobile phone, camera or video camera, wallet and maybe an umbrella.

(3) Your Rp.750 ticket comes with a bottle of water and shoe covers. Make sure you take good care of your shoe covers since you will need these as you walk on the platform around the Taj Mahal. If you lose the shoe covers, you will have to leave your shoes in designated shoe racks and walk barefoot. Also, there's no guarantee you'll see your shoes again when you come back for them.

(4) Taking pictures is not allowed inside the mausoleum itself.

(5) While there's no dress code for the Taj Mahal, remember that it is a mausoleum and a place of worship. So dress appropriately.

The Taj Mahal was an interpretation of paradise as described in the Holy Koran. The water channels represented the four rivers of paradise. After the completion of the building, Shah Jahan entitled himself as Rizwan, the door keeper of paradise. In the main mausoleum, semi-precious stones such as malachite, coral, lapis lazuli, turquoise, mother of pearl, jade, jasper, yellow marble and black onyx were inlaid into the white marble from Makrana, Rajastan (360km from Agra) to produce the Taj Mahal's intricate designs. Bas relief depictions of flowers and vines as well as jaali (latticework) were carved out of the marble.

Taj Mahal Mosque

Taj Mahal Mosque is located on the left side of the Taj Majal when facing the building. Another similar building which served as a guest house was constructed on the right side for a symmetrical view, an element of Persian-style architecture.

The Amar Singh Gate of the Red Fort in Agra

After a late lunch at the Radisson Blu Hotel Agra (their Indian buffet was superb), we proceeded to the Agra Fort or Red Fort, where the palaces of the Mughal emperors are located. Both Taj Mahal and Agra Fort are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Agra Fort is a complex of Mughal fortifications, palaces and gardens, another must visit when in Agra.

A group of women sit down and rest at the Khas Mahal, a white marble palace inside Agra Fort

Musamman Burj at Agra Fort with the Yamuna River & Taj Mahal behind it

Intricate designs made of semiprecious stones inlaid in white marble decorate the Musamman Burj, an octagonal tower built by Shah Jahan for Mumtaz Mahal

We explored the complex for a little over an hour before motoring back to New Delhi. It's best to stay overnight in Agra to maximize your visit to both sites.

Jet Airways flies daily to New Delhi

Jet Airways flies daily from Hong Kong, Bangkok and Singapore direct to New Delhi. Passengers from Manila can take connecting or codeshare flights to these cities. 

Nepal: Paragliding in Pokhara

Getting to Pokhara from Kathmandu, Nepal by land is no joke. We had to endure nine hours of mountain road to travel from Nagarkot (two hours west of Kathmandu) to Pohara. This beautiful lakeside town is visited for its picturesque views of Annapurna. But it's also a popular place to go paragliding!

You can easily book paragliding in Pokhara itself. Prices start at about US$70 but best to check the inclusions. We paid a little bit more. The service includes a trip up Sarangkot Hill, the jump-off point for all flights. It's a tandem flight and you'll be guided by a licensed pilot. It's quite easy for as long as you follow the instructions.

An extra service are the photos and a video of your trip with is a must. I paid Rp.1700 (US$16) for it but it was definitely worth it since my pilot was really good. The camera lens was really clear and he knew how to angle the shots.

The views, especially of Fewa Lake and the Himalayan foothills, are spectacular! It was worth every dollar we paid. Make sure you don't eat too much before you fly. And if you are motion sick, tell the pilot not to do acrobat flying.

We have another tour to Nepal next year! Here is our schedule.

Sri Lanka: Esala Perahera Festival 2012 in the Sacred City of Kandy

When I booked my flights to Sri Lanka late last year, I hadn't the slightest clue that the dates I had selected were during Esala Perahera 2012 in the Sacred City of Kandy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Esaha Perahera is the grandest Buddhist procession of Sri Lanka where the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha is displayed and brought around Kandy in several nightly processions in July and August with much pomp and pageantry.

The procession during the first night of Randoli Parahera lasted almost three hours with hundreds of dancers, musicians and participants, and dozens of elephants in ceremonial robes with lights. In the photo, an elephant (tusker) carries the Ransivige, a golden casket containing the Sacred Tooth Relic of Buddha. As it passes by, the seated crowd stands up in respect and prayer. Watch out for posts on Sri Lanka. In the meantime, check out more photos @ivanhenares in Instagram.