Ifugao & Nueva Vizcaya: Banaue mornings and a stopover in Dupax

Imagine waking up to the cool Banaue morning with a view of the rice terraces and tree-covered mountains just outside your window. That's what I experienced at the Banaue Hotel for the past few days, with rooms, function rooms and a restaurant that provides panoramic views of the rice terraces. That's one cluster of terraces in the Banaue poblacion which is still free from eyesores and other unsightly structures.

It was our last day in Banaue and I'll definitely miss the cool mountain air and the great views. Before leaving for Manila, we listened to Ifugao Governor Teddy Baguilat talk about the challenges they have been facing in the preservation of the rice terraces and possible solutions to these problems. It's indeed very difficult to push for the preservation of these terraces when almost every young Ifugao dreams of making it big in the city, when G.I. sheets and hollow blocks become a status symbol. But there is definitely hope since the community realizes now that they are custodians of a legacy to the world.

On our way back to Manila (I was asleep again for most of the trip), we made one last stopover at Dupax del Sur to check out the San Vicente Ferrer Church which is a National Cultural Treasure. We had lunch there too. Anyway, it's back to school for me.

How to get to Banaue, Ifugao
Florida Bus has a regular trip from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 10:45 p.m. Or you can take any bus that goes to Cagayan Valley and get off at Solano, Nueva Vizcaya where you can catch regular trips to Banaue and other towns in Ifugao. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily.

Ifugao: Rice terraces in Hapao and Hungduan

Today was a fantastic day! I finally visited one of the UNESCO-inscribed terraces, the Hapao and Poblacion clusters in Hungduan. There are five all in Ifugao and the cluster in Banaue poblacion is not one of them! These five are Hungduan, Mayoyao, Nagacadan in Kiangan, and Batad & Bangaan in Banaue.

It was a one and a half hour jeepney ride from the Banaue town proper to the Hapao Rice Terraces in Hungduan. Then from there, we motored to the Hungduan Rice Terraces in the Poblacion. We were welcomed by the mayor and other city officials. Lunch was served in front of the municipal hall. Around the area were examples of traditional Ifugao dwellings.

Before proceeding back to the hotel, we then passed by Lagud Village Learning Inn, a community-based tourism project where tourists can opt to stay in traditional Ifugao dwellings. In fact, there have been five Japanese exchange student living there for several mounths now, immersing with the community. We also donated P200 for kids to a plant tree in our name, part of reforestation and fund-raising efforts for the education of the young Ifugaos.

We finally got back at 4 p.m. and I decided to take a power nap before our next appointment. Dinner was at a campsite in Banaue. Kudos to the Save the Ifugao Terraces Movement (SITMo) for organizing this great tour and for taking the lead in the preservation of the rice terraces.

How to get to Banaue, Ifugao
Florida Bus has a regular trip from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 10:45 p.m. Or you can take any bus that goes to Cagayan Valley and get off at Solano, Nueva Vizcaya where you can catch regular trips to Banaue and other towns in Ifugao. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily. From Banaue, you can get transportation to Hungduan.

Nueva Vizcaya: We're off to Banaue

Today, the delegates of the ICOMOS-CIAV Scientific Conference 2007 proceeded to Banaue where we will be staying for the next few days. The scientific conference is an annual meeting of vernacular heritage experts from around the globe. I was asleep for most of the trip since I did not get enough sleep the previous nights. We stopped by Balete Pass along the way. More popularly known as Dalton Pass, this marks the boundary between Nueva Ecija and Nueva Vizcaya, and therefore Central Luzon and Cagayan Valley as well.

We had a sumptuous lunch at the Governor's Hotel in Solano town. As we arrived, we were welcomed by a marching band from the local elementary school. After lunch, we were off to Banaue. Again, I was fast asleep so there's nothing much I could say. And the next thing I knew, we had arrived.

The view from my room in the Banaue Hotel was great. Imagine waking up in the morning and the first thing you'll see are rice terraces and tree-covered mountains. Dinner was superb too! It looks like I'll be gaining more pounds if they keep dishing up this great selection of dishes.

How to get to Banaue, Ifugao
Florida Bus has a regular trip from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 10:45 p.m. Or you can take any bus that goes to Cagayan Valley and get off at Solano, Nueva Vizcaya where you can catch regular trips to Banaue and other towns in Ifugao. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily.

Ifugao: Restore the Ifugao Rice Terraces before it's too late

We seem to forget there is a delicate balance between man and nature that needs to be preserved. Such a balance was close to perfect in the Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras until neglect came into the picture. I've always lamented the fact that the Banaue Rice Terraces are now the Banaue House Terraces with so many unsightly structures built on them. I understand the need for more homes in the area to shelter the growing population. But can't they be built the traditional way so as not to destroy the landscape, the very cultural landscape which gives them funds to build their new structures in the first place?

The UNESCO has spoken: restore the Ifugao Rice Terraces or it's out of the UNESCO World Heritage List! Those shanties and other unsightly buildings must go! If new structures must be built, let them mimic the traditional Ifugao homes with cogon roofs and wooden walls. In fact, although it may be artificial, I feel covering all those structures with cogon would make a big difference. Or maybe the architects of the UAP can propose designs for affordable houses similar to the traditional ones which would give the Ifugao modern amenities but still preserve the cultural landscape. What do you think?

But in the long run, to preserve these terraces, we must endeavor to preserve the way of life which built them. That is tall order given the gradual growth and development these communities are undergoing. But it is one that has to be accomplished to save us from international embarrassment. Check out this article from GMANews.TV:

Unesco to RP: Restore Ifugao terraces or it's off heritage list
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (Unesco) on Thursday said the scenic Ifugao Rice Terraces in the Cordilleras was at risk of being stricken off the World's Heritage List should the Philippines fail to restore it in two years.

Carmen Padilla, commissioner of the Unesco National Commission of the Philippines (Unacom), advised the government to take immediate measures to preserve and prevent further deterioration of the terraces, now included in Unesco's "Danger List" of heritage sites.

In a media forum at the La Dulce Fontanana in Greenhills in San Juan City, Padilla scored the construction of shanties and other structures on the centuries-old rice terraces in the upland Cordillera region.

Radio station dzBB quoted Padilla as saying that the structures may deface the site should an earthquake rock the region.

Other factors cited by the committee as contributing to the site's deterioration are the rising unemployment rate among farmers in the area as well as the deforestation activities in the land. Read more...

Taste of Asia Bloggers Meet
I arrived really late since I came from another event. More than half of the bloggers had left already. But at least the travel bloggers had fun. Here's myself, Anton of Our Awesome Planet, Ivan ManDy of Old Manila Walks, Eric of Byahilo.com, and Nina of Justwandering.org in the CliqueBooth.

Nueva Vizcaya: The citrus capital of the Philippines

Since we're already in the process of digging out those albums from the baul, here is another trip from the archives. The thing I like about conferences is that many of them are out of town and the last day is usually reserved for a tour of the locality. This one was a conference on history held in Nueva Vizcaya, a province most known for its citrus fruits. The Center for Kapampangan Studies sent me and Prof. Lino Dizon to attend in the Center's behalf.

From Pampanga, I passed by for Lino in Tarlac. Then we made an eastward trip towards the Maharlika Highway via Guimba, Nueva Ecija. It was the first time for me to visit Cagayan Valley and the views along the way especially as we entered Carranglan were quite refreshing. It was also significant for us since Carranglan used to be the last town of the original Provincia de la Pampanga. Make sure you have a lot of gas since the distance between the last town of Nueva Ecija and the next town in Nueva Vizcaya is over 40 kilometers!

Along the highway in Santa Fe, I noticed shops selling baskets, salakots and other rattan products. I made sure to buy salakots on the way back to add to my collection.

After several hours of driving, we finally arrived in Bayombong, the provincial capital. We were already late for the first day (I don't remember why we left late) and arrived just in time for the end of day's activities.

Since the hotels in Bayombong were fully-booked, the Center made reservations for us at the Governor's Hotel in Solano, which is the commercial center of the province and just a few minutes away from Bayombong. Actually, that was better for us since the hotel was among the better ones in the province. Hehe! Also billeted in the hotel was Tingting Cojuangco who was attending the conference as well. Lino was actually one of her doctoral dissertation advisers so we had dinner or breakfast with her every once in a while.

Anyway, during one of the conference days, Lino and I decided to sneak away from the afternoon sessions to make a side trip to Banaue since it was quite close. But we passed by the town of Kiangan first to check it out. Among the places we visited was the 1945 surrender site of Gen. Tomoyuki Yamashita, the Tiger of Malaya. It is now a military shrine known as Bantayog sa Kiangan.

Notice the website of the shrine since it mentions that the surrender of Yamashita was in 1942! Shame on the PVAO since it shows they don't know their history. We all know that 1942 was the Fall of Bataan!

It was getting late and we still had Banaue on our list. The sun was still up when we arrived in the town proper. We could have made it to the viewpoint in time for photos but for some stupid reason, I made a wrong turn somewhere an ended up on the road to Mayoyao instead of the one to Bontoc. So to make the long story short, we weren't able to take photos with the famed rice terraces! Sigh! Good thing I came back this year.

Before we left Banaue, I passed by a souvenir shop to buy some miniature bulol (rice gods) which were dirt cheap! I got them for PHP50 each when a smaller one I bought in Baguio many years back was PHP250!

The next day was our trip around Nueva Vizcaya. During breakfast, Lino handed me a salakot which Tingting had bought for me since she found out during one of our conversations that I was colecting salakots. It was really nice of her. She had already left for Manila.

We drove back to Bayombong which was the meeting place for the trip. Our first stop was the Church of San Vicente Ferrer in Dupax del Sur which was declared a national cultural treasure the year before. For some reason, I misplaced my photos of the church since I separated it from the other Nueva Vizcaya photos for scanning. So we will have to make do with a photo from this tourism site.

According to the NCCA website, "this Dominican church was established in the late 18th century and features a baptistery and narthex pillars covered with finely carved stucco. The church’s convent retains some features from its violent past, such as slits on the outer walls which were used by archers to defend against attacks."

From Dupax del Sur, we made a trip further down south to Dalton Pass in Sta. Fe, the boundary of Nueva Ecija and Nueva Vizcaya. According to the DOT website, being "the only access between Pampanga and Cagayan Valley, the pass became the scene of much bloody fighting during the final stages of WW II and bore witness to the death of almost 17,000 Japanese, American, and Filipino soldiers. Commemorative markers stand by the road’s highest point, which also offers a good view into the headlands. The Dalton Pass National Shrine commemorates the death of General Dalton by a sniper’s bullet during WW II. At 3,000 feet above sea level, Dalton Pass is also the gateway to the Cagayan Valley Region and the Ifugao Rice Terraces."

The group stopped over along the road in Santa Fe to buy souvenirs. So I took this opportunity to purchase salakots for my collection. It was then up the mountain trail to the Ikalahan "Mountain Fresh" factory in Barangay Imugan which is famous for its various spreads and dried fruits. The Ikalahan are a tribal minority residing in the Caraballo Mountains.

One of their unique products are the dagwey (Saurauia bontocensis) preserve, jelly and spread. I liked especially the dagwey preserve which is the local version of prunes using the indigenous fruit. There are also guava (Psidium guajava) jelly, jam and butter; dikay (Embelia philippinensis) jelly; ginger (Zingiber officinale) jelly; passion fruit (Passiflora edulis) jelly; roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) jelly; and santol (Sandoricum koetjape) jelly and spread. You could read the whole story of this backyard industry in this FAO report.

A trip to Nueva Vizcaya would not be complete without a taste of its famous citrus fruit, the perante. On the way back to Bayombong proper, we bought perantes at popular roadside fruit stand in Bayombong. I also got myself some seedlings which I planted in our backyard orchard in Pampanga.

According to the DOT, "citrus fruits and oranges which are available all year round and being propagated in the towns of Kasibu, Kayapa, and Ambaguio and can be bought along the national highway at Busilac, Bayombong, making Nueva Vizcaya the Citrus Capital of the Philippines. Common varieties include perante, valencia, clementine, satsuma, pongkan, Washington navel, pomelo, calamansi, and others."

Mountain Province & Ifugao: Up the mountain trail to Bontoc

Just got back from an exhausting but fulfilling day trip to the Cordilleras. Yes, you heard me right, it was a day trip! This time the HCS was off to Bontoc, Mountain Province where a rare American period upland capitol building still stands.

We all met up at Gemma's place at 11 p.m. Saturday night and were off at about 12 midnight. It was going to be a long drive up Maharlika Highway so we went to sleep for most of the trip stopping only for a short break in Bambang, Nueva Vizcaya. In Baliuag, we were caught in a major traffic jam in the brewing since an AUV had crashed into a telephone post and as a result, the wires were dangling quite low making it difficult for trucks to pass. Since it is a major truck route, imagine the long line that resulted from the accident. Anyway, we were able to manuever our way in just a few minutes but we could imagine the traffic jam we were to face if we had arrived minutes later.

From Maharlika Highway, we made a left in Bagabag towards Banaue. By the time we entered Ifugao, the sun was up. The scenery along the way was just surreal and we had wanted to stopover by a river for a breakfast picnic but had to abandon the plan since it was difficult to find our way down to the riverbank. We had made it past Lagawe, Ifugao's capital town when we decided to find a spot along the mountain road for our picnic.

We found a clearing where we parked. Gemma had prepared cold cuts, bread, cheese, and steamed brussel sprouts and carrots, a healthy treat indeed! Then we noticed we had a flat tire. And to make things worse, there was one stubborn screw which broke our tire wrench. So the driver had to hitchhike to Banaue to look for a vulcanizing shop for help. Anyway, we were stuck for close to two hours. And by this time, Gemma had sent an SOS to the governor of Mountain Province. So a vehicle was on the way. But Bontoc was two hours away! So we just enjoyed the view and watched an old Ifugao lady weave some cloth the traditional way.

When the driver came back, they were able to replace the tire only to realize that the spare was soft as well. Oh brother! So we made a slow drive to Banaue where we had the tire inflated, pausing briefly for photos with the Banaue Rice Terraces. Sad to say, the view from Banaue town is now that of the Banaue House Terraces! Sigh! And you have to drive further out of town for better views. I wonder why the local government of Banaue did not regulate the construction and development in their area. Didn't they realize that they themselves are destroying the beauty of the rice terraces they are promoting to tourists?

A few kilometers from Banaue, we finally saw the vehicle sent by the governor and decided to transfer. Since the driver was already used to driving along the rough mountain road, we were moving faster now. Of course, we could not resist the photo opportunities along the way, views of mountain villages such as Bayyo, perched beside the rice terraces which their ancestors built. Then we saw Bontoc, the capital town which appeared like a hidden metropolis in the mountains. It's sad though that the current architecture in the Philippines is so nondescript and lacks character. The view of Bontoc would have been more charming if the architectural character of the place was maintained.

We went straight to the capitol to take photos for our 2007 HCS Calendar. The facade of the capitol had just been renovated in April, the wooden windows replace by metal ones. Sigh! But most of it was still intact. So we took our photos.

Governor Maximo Dalog, who had graciously sent his vehicle to rescue us, was there to meet us. Inside his office, he served us native coffee and patupat, their native rice cake which was shaped into small triangles. We stayed in his office for quite a while since Gemma interviewed him for her TV and radio show.

We had lunch at the Cable Cafe & Restaurant which was located in an old upland house. You could see the difference between the lowland and upland dwellings and sadly, there are not much of these colonial mountain homes and shophouses left. Before lunch, we were treated to an impromptu wine-tasting session as various lang-ay festival wines were brought out. They served us sorelle (cacao), bugnay and rice wines which were really great! I mixed some bugnay and sorelle wine with my pineapple juice and the result was a delicious cocktail which Gemma named Bontoc Embrace. Hehe!

After the hearty lunch, we were brought to the Bontoc Museum which was housed in buildings designed like Bontoc huts. Right beside it was an old Catholic school founded in 1911, the St. Vincent's Elementary School which was a complex of wooden and brick buildings (more photos here). I had noticed a sign which showed a new building and fund-raising efforts for it. So I asked where it was going to be built. And to my horror, they were going to demolish some old ones.

So I immediately talked to the governor and it turned out that the tourism officer who was with us was the president of the parents' association of the school. So we were able to make them realize the value of the old buildings and they will be contacting some heritage architects for advise on how to go about restoring them.

Our plan was to visit nearby Sagada and Maligcong Rice Terraces but thanks to our flat tire fiasco, we had to make our way back to Manila. Sigh! This time, we stopped along the road for more photos. Despite the rough road which the governor calls the "Bontoc Massage," the view of the natural heritage of the Philippines at its finest makes any trip up the Cordilleras most worth it. I hope it stays that way!

One of our last stops was the marker of the Philippine Institute of Civil Engineers and the American Society of Civil Engineers (more photos here). Aside from being a National Cultural Treasure and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Ifugao Rice Terraces had also been designated as an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark. So that is more reason to preserve it, moreso since it was among the 100 Most Endagered Sites for 2000, and still among 34 sites listed in the World Heritage in Danger List.

This marked viewpoint offers one of the better views of the rice terraces in Banaue. I think this viewpoint was the highlight of our trip thanks to the magnificent view and the cool mountain weather. From there, we proceeded to the Banaue Hotel where we had some coffee.

After coffee, it was off to Manila and another long nap. And we thought it was all over when we realized when we stopped over in Cabanatuan that our aircon fanbelt was broken. Good thing the weather was cool so the trip back to Manila wasn't that uncomfortable and the next thing I knew, we were back in Makati, a little over 24 hours after we had departed. It's now time to get more sleep! Hehe!