Mexico: Trajinera ride & mariachi bands in Xochimilco's Aztec canals

As a neophyte to Mexican culture, I had no idea what mariachi bands were. Sure, we all hear Mexican music every now and then. But I was quite clueless. Friends who found out we were off to Xochimilco told us to make sure we get serenaded by mariachis.

The Aztec canals and floating islands of Xochimilco are inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List together with the Centro Historico of Mexico City. Xochimilco, one of the delgaciones of D.F. (pronounced de efe) or the Distrito Federal is about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the Centro Historico via the Metro and the connecting Tren Ligero. Stepping out of the Tren Ligero station in Xochimilco, we were met by really helpful local guides outside and at every street corner who pointed us towards the embarcaderos, the docks where the trajineras are located.


Trajineras are small non-motorized boats that were used to transport goods along the canals of Xochimilco. Today, these boats no longer serve that purpose and are instead used to take tourists for leisurely rides along the canals. In the olden days, these boats used to be decorated with flowers and juniper branches. But those have long been replaced by arches painted with really colorful designs. Each arch has a name on it, usually the name of the boat or a significant someone.

The highlight of any visit to Xochimilco are the trajinera rides through its historic Aztec canals. Nothing much to see as we walked to the embarcaderos. So I was anxious to find out what this was all about.


We finally made it to Embarcadero Belem, one of the nine trajinera docks in Xochimilco. They had fixed rates per person and we opted to take the 45 minute ride since it was already late in the afternoon and we simply wanted to experience these famed rides, even just for a while.

Of course, my first question to our trajinero (I would think that's what they call the trajinera drivers) was "Where are the mariachis?" He pointed towards the direction we were going to and said they were further ahead. Like a gondolier, our trajinero weaved through the ancient canals built by the Aztecs. But he didn't sing though. That was the job of the mariachis.


As we entered one of the main canals, we saw even more of these colorful local boats. And there in one of the boats was a mariachi band dressed in suits and tuxedos. Ah! They were the vital element that added charm to an otherwise uneventful experience. As we got nearer, I felt the festive atmosphere these bands created. Indeed, I was in Mexico!


Their boats would dock with another boat filled with picnickers and they'd render some classical Mexican songs for a tip of course. But bystanders like us got showered with graces as we passed by boat after boat of these musical ensembles. Many locals would rent these trajineras for hours to enjoy a lazy Sunday afternoon with food and drinks in tow. If you don't have food and you suddenly get hungry, floating stores and hawkers are all over the place.

By the time we knew it, our time was up and we made our way back to the embarcadero. After enjoying a home-cooked meal at one of the residences which dished up some food for visitors (now that's tourism helping the local community), we made our way back to Mexico City. Then it hit me, our Mexican adventure was about to go full steam ahead.

How to get to Xochimilco
Xochimilco is conveniently connected to Mexico City's Metro. Take the Metro to Tasquena (MX$3) and transfer to the Tren Ligero to Xochimilco (MX$3).

Mexico: Good Friday procession in Puebla

The bus ride to Puebla, Mexico was quite interesting. The highways were no doubt scenic. It was difficult to sleep since I didn't want to miss the view.



Along the way, I marveled at the sight of two snow-capped volcanoes: Popocatepetl (5,426 m) and Iztaccíhuatl (5,230 m). It was Good Friday and we were off to Puebla to watch the Good Friday procession.



Like most of the places we planned to visit, the Historic Downtown of Puebla is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was a good thing we arrived a few hours before lunch since people were just starting to troop to the Puebla Cathedral for the noon procession. At least we got to take some photos of the streetscape while it wasn't jampacked with people. Later in the afternoon, moving around, especially around the Zocalo, was quite a challenge.

Our first stop was the Catedral Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Concepción. The archbishop was leading the Way of the Cross or Via Crucis inside the cathedral. So we could not really appreciate the grand interior.


We walked around the Zocalo hoping to visit other sites. But after seeing the growing crowd, we decided to find ourselves a spot to observe the procession. At about 11:30 a.m., a small procession passed by, with images of the Señor Nazareno and Señor de las Maravillas borne on andas, making its way to the Catedral. They were accompanied by a marching band and women with matracas, a percussion instrument that is used especially during Lent.




Some parishes and confradias have passion images that participated in the procession. And at 12 noon, these images were brought around the historic downtown in a colorful and solemn Good Friday procession. What I noticed about processions both in Spain and in Latin America is that images are on andas, borne on the shoulders of devotees. While in the Philippines, most images are on carrozas with wheels.


After the procession passed by, we tried to walk around. But we ended up going back to the Zocalo for lunch at an al fresco restaurant. It was also a good vantage point for the return of the procession back to the Catedral over two hours after it started. Of course, I had to have mole poblano because it originated in Puebla, hence the description poblano.




So we got to see the procession a second time. The first image was the Virgen de la Soledad, followed by the Padre Jesus de Analco, Virgen de los Dolores, Señor Nazareno and Señor de las Maravillas.



After the procession, we walked to the Templo Conventual de Santo Domingo de Guzmán or the Santo Domingo Church. If there's one church you have to see in Puebla, it's this one, particularly the Capilla del Rosario. We got to see the church. But unfortunately, the chapel inside was closed until Black Saturday. So we only got to see it through the grill entrance.

For some reason, it must have been the dense crowds, we decided to leave earlier than scheduled. It was warm and there were just too many people, it got a bit exhausting walking around. So we took a cab back to the bus station and tried our luck to board an earlier bus which we were able to do. If I do get to visit Mexico again, I'll make sure to include Puebla and nearby Chulola in the itinerary. More photos of Puebla in Ivan About Town in Facebook.

How to get to Puebla
Puebla is about 2 hours by bus from Mexico City's Tasquena Terminal (MX$142). From the terminal, take a taxi to downtown Puebla.

Mexico: Santa Prisca Church and Holy Week in Taxco

A horde of white beetle taxis and combi vans doing their rounds of the narrow cobblestone streets was the sight that greeted us in Taxco, Mexico. Walking to the historic center from the bus station was a challenge because the only way to go was further up this old mountain town. But we managed to make it all the way up to the Templo de Santa Prisca, the crown jewel of Taxco. But not without exerting so much effort that got me working out a sweat.


Mining towns are plentiful in Mexico. Taxco is said to be the center of the silver-mining heartland of Mexico. And the most famous resident of this mining town is José de la Borda, who made his fortune in this mining town, but lost it as well building the Santa Prisca Church.

Just before we began our ascent, we got delicious servings of tacos in a neighborhood tacqueria a few meters from the station, probably among the best we had during our Mexico journey. It was Holy Thursday and a motorcade of honking trucks jampacked with people followed an image of the crucified Christ that was led by several men on horses. Holy Week is one big fiesta in Mexico, as I would further discover in the next few days.



Back to Santa Prisca. It's popularly referred to as the Catedral de Santa Prisca although it's not a cathedral. My jaw dropped to the floor as we walked in the church. The interior was an impressive assemblage of twelve exquisitely carved wooden altars generously covered with gold leaf. It was a fine example of Mexican Baroque religious art. The main altar or retablo mayor is dedicated to the Purísima Concepción and the patron saints of Taxco de Alarcón: Santa Prisca and San Sebastián.


The exterior is equally impressive with twin belfries built in the Churrigueresque style. They were the tallest structures in Mexico from 1758 to 1806. Outside the church, a makeshift hut was built for Holy Thursday veneration of the image of the Agony in the Garden. The Garden of Gethsemane is recreated in the front atrium of Santa Prisca.


We wanted a grand view of Taxco and we were told that we could take a combi all the way to the Guadalupe Church. We spent MX$4.50 for the ride through Taxco's winding streets that would turn, climb, descend and even drop at times. Drivers have mastered the art of speeding through these capricious single lane streets without hitting vehicles moving in the opposite direction.

It was a view worth the ride. And whenever we could, we would later try to enjoy other towns we visited from high vistas to enjoy spectacular and panoramic views of Mexico's old towns.


Back down, we walked around town while waiting for our bus. There were very interesting vistas and pathways at every turn. Too bad we missed the evening Recorrido de los Soldados Romanos since our bus was left 30 minutes before it started. But we did see locals dressed as Roman soldiers making their way to the church. For more photos of Taxco, check out Ivan About Town in Facebook.

Holy Week (Semana Santa) Activities in Taxco
Taxco has processions everyday from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. Here is a list of activities in the Parroquia de Santa Prisca y San Sebastian A. R. de Taxco during Holy Week or Semana Santa. Times are based on the 2011 schedule. But I would assume that they are the same every year.

Palm Sunday
- Procesion Solemne de Domingo de Ramos (7 a.m.)
Holy Monday
- Procesion Dedicada a Siempre Virgen Maria (10 p.m.)
Holy Tuesday
- Procesion Dedicada a las Animas del Purgatorio (10 p.m.)
Holy Wednesday
- Procesion Dedicada a la Santisima Trinidad (10 p.m.)
Holy Thursday
- Recorrido de los Soldados Romanos (6:30 p.m.)
- Visita de las Siete Casas (7 p.m.)
- Procesion del Divino Preso (8:30 p.m.)
- Procesion de los Cristos (10 p.m.)
Good Friday
- Procesion de Jesus Camino al Calvario (11 a.m.)
- Reflexion de las Tres Caidas de Jesus (12 p.m.)
- Crucifixion de Jesus (1 p.m.)
- Solemne Adoracion de la Santa Cruz (3 p.m.)
- Reflexion del Descendimiento de Nuestro Senor Jesucristo y Procesion del Santo Entierro de Nuestro Senor Jesucristo (5 p.m.)
- El Pesame a la Santisima Virgen de los Dolores (10:30 p.m.)
Black Saturday
- Procesion del Silencio en Honor a la Santisima Virgen de los Dolores (12 midnight)
- Paseo de los Soldados Romanos (9 a.m.)
Easter Sunday
- Procesion de la Resurreccion de Nuestro Senor Jesucristo (5 p.m.)

How to get to Taxco
Taxco is about 2 hours and 30 minutes by bus from Mexico's Tasquena Station (MX$158)

Mexico: Pilgrimage to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City

The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Insigne y Nacional Basílica de Guadalupe) in Mexico City is one of the most significant pilgrimage sites of the Roman Catholic Church. It is a complex of several churches, including an old and new basilica, built near the place Our Lady of Guadalupe is said to have appeared to San Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin. It's quite accessible via public transport since the La Villa-Basilica Metro Station is a few minutes walk from here.


The Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe Complex has several churches including the Old Basilica (Templo Expiatorio a Cristo Rey) and New Basilica which was completed in 1976 to replace the sinking Antigua Basilica, the Templo del Pocito, Ex-convento y Parroquia de Santa Maria de Guadalupe (Capuchinas) and the Capilla del Cerrito on top of Tepeyac Hill among others.



I was particularly impressed with the Templo del Pocito with its very elegant interior and intricate carved stone and tile exterior.


The Antigua Basilica is another well-preserved colonial period church. Juan Diego's cloak was venerated in this church from 1709 to 1974. Because it was built on weak ground, the city being a former lake, the church started to sink, which is very noticeable. It was closed for many years and has been reopened after repairs were completed.



A New Basilica was designed by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, the architect of the Aztec Stadium and the National Anthropology Museum, and built from 1974 to 1976. It is where the cloak is currently venerated and where most of the services are held.



We climbed the steps up Tepeyac Hill to visit the Capilla del Cerrito, which has interesting mosaic murals. The hill also offers a panoramic view of Mexico City.



On the way back to the Metro station, we had dinner at local restaurant. Aside from the usual tacos and torta, I finally got to taste the Pollo con Mole Poblano, which is a chocolate-based sauce. I would later taste other versions which had more chocolate and more on the bitter side. So the one I had in Guadalupe was my favorite.

For more photos, check out Ivan About Town in Facebook.

Mexico: Bus ride to the Pre-Hispanic City of Teotihuacán

The Pre-Hispanic City of Teotihuacán is the UNESCO-inscribed archaeological site closest to Mexico City. The city was probably founded around 150 B.C. Its two main pyramids, the Pirámide del Sol and Pirámide de la Luna, are among the largest built in the pre-Columbian Americas.

From Mexico City, we took a bus from the Potrero Metro Station (another option would be from outside the Autobuses del Norte), which was MX$35 one-way. The bus ride takes about an hour. If you take the bus, make sure the bus stops in front of the Pirámides and not just the town of San Juan Teotihuacán. The bus ride takes about an hour.


There are several entrances. But the buses drop you off close to the Pirámide del Sol. Entrance fee to the zona arqueológica of Teotihuacán is MX$51 which seems to be the standard rate at sites and museums managed by Mexico's Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH).

Since it was getting a bit hot, we decided not to climb the Pirámide del Sol (63 meters high), said to be the second largest in the New World after the one in Chulola. So we walked along the Avenida de los Muertos or Avenue of the Dead, a central street with ceremonial buildings on either side.



At the northern end of the avenue is the Pirámide de la Luna. From the top of the pyramid, we were afforded a grand view of the Avenida de los Muertos and the rest of the city.

Near the southern end of the avenue is the Temple of the Feathered Serpent or Temple of Quetzalcoatl, the third highest structure in Teotihuacán. Although we missed this one, it's arguably the most interesting, with levels decorated with feathered serpent heads alternating with those of Tlaloc, a god of rain, fertility, and water.



Before proceeding back to Mexico City, we had lunch in one of the restaurants right in front of the park gates. We had Carne Asada con Ensalda, Papas, Arroz y Frijoles, Tacos de Barbacua, Quesadillas and Tlacoyos (oval-shaped fried cakes made of masa or corndmeal dough).

Taking the bus back was no problem since they passed by the park entrance at regular intervals. This time, after another hour on the bus, we found ourselves at the Autobuses del Norte. From there, we took the Metro to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. For more photos of Teotihuacán, check out the Teotihuacán album in Facebook.

Mexico: Around Mexico City's Centro Historico

Mexico is a country that many get to see only on TV, especially for fans of those Mexican telenovelas. This Central American nation is very rich in cultural heritage. In fact, it's one of the countries with the most UNESCO World Heritage Sites. So Mexico was on top of my list of places to visit.

I told Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks about my summer travel plans late last year. And the next thing I knew, he was on board. Good thing since traveling with others helps bring down the costs. Traveling to Mexico was also made easy since those with valid U.S. visas can enter Mexico visa-free.


We arrived late in the evening on separate flights from the U.S. After getting several warnings about using ordinary taxis in Mexico City, we made sure to take the airport taxi to our hostel in the Centro Historico. It wasn't cheap (MX$205), but it's the price you have to pay for safety. The hostel we were going to was right smack in the Centro Historico, with a grand view of the Catedral Metropolitano. It was a good first impression that didn't last though. Our peace and quiet was shattered in the next few nights since the top floor of the hostel, which was just a floor above us, doubled as a bar or party venue in the evenings.


The next morning, we took it slow. Ciudad de México, México, D.F. or D.F. (pronounced de efe) to the locals, is 2240 meters above sea level. And they say it's best to rest and take it slow during the first day to adjust to the high altitude. The Historic Centre of Mexico City and Xochimilco, which we would visit a few days later, are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. So we spent the afternoon walking around the Zocalo and areas around it.



Our first stop was of course the towering Catedral y Sagrario Metropolitano de la Ciudad de México. It's said to be the largest cathedral in the Americas and was built on the ruins of the Templo Mayor of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan, which the Spanish conquistadores had destroyed to strengthen their rule over the newly-conquered domain. Ruins of the Templo Mayor were discovered right beside the Cathedral in 1978 when an electric company was conducting some diggings in the area. And like in any country which knows the value of heritage, the site was scientifically excavated, studied and preserved.


The Metropolitan Cathedral is actually two churches, the main cathedral and the adjacent sagrario or tabernacle. Needless to say, the interior of the Cathedral is very impressive. Unfortunately, we had a difficult time getting really nice photos of the Cathedral and the Zocalo in front of it since Mexico City's main plaza had been converted into a makeshift camp site. With a presidential election looming in several months, the role of the Zócalo or the Plaza de la Constitución as a political hub and popular place for protests was even more evident with different interest groups erecting tents and banners there.

On the east side of the Zócalo is the Palacio Nacional, built on the site of the palace of Aztec ruler Moctezuma II. Once the palace of Spanish viceroys, a presidential residence and center of government, it now houses offices of the Federal Treasury and the National Archives. The materials used to build the palace were said to come from the palace of Moctezuma II.


The streets to the east of the Zócalo are one big marketplace which is very reminiscent of Divisoria, but amidst grand colonial buildings, especially along Calle Moneda. I could in fact hear the sounds of commerce from the top of my hostel building, vendors calling out to people to buy their wares. And just like in Divisoria, vendors pack up and run like scared rats, once the warning whistle is sounded. It's actually a good place to scout for some souvenirs.


To the west of the Zócalo is a chic pedestrian mall along Calle Madero which reminded me of Las Ramblas in Barcelona, complete with the human statues. It has a lot of cafes, restaurants, book shops, monumental old buildings and exquisite churches, among other structures.


At the opposite end of Madero is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, another grand structure that has become an icon of Mexico City. It's situated next to the Alameda Central Park. The exterior of the building is a mix of Neoclassical and Art Nouveau architecture. But the interior will no doubt make any Art Deco enthusiast go loco over Deco!



Since we were hungry, we wanted to look for some Mexican street food. We thought the Alameda was a good candidate. But we found a really interesting taco and torta stall close to the churches of Veracruz and San Juan de Dios opposite the Alameda. The stall was called Carbajal and we had bistec and suadero tacos plus torta with chorizo, hamon and salchicha, thus comprising our initial encounter with real Mexican food! Traditional Mexican Cuisine was inscribed in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010.


The meats were continuously cooking in their own juices adding flavor to this delightful Mexican snack. Plus you had a choice of various salsas to add to your taco. Note that a good Mexican taco is not complete without the chopped onions, cilantro, limon, salsa rojo and salsa verde as condiments. For more photos, check out the Ivan About Town FB album on Mexico City.