Cavite: Hiking up Pico de Loro

After years of wanting to climb a mountain, I finally did today. Although I’ve climbed up the summit and down the crater lake of Taal Volcano in 1998, I consider this my first real climb. I joined the 2010 and 2012 UP Medicine students in the open climb of the UPCM Outdoor Society as they scaled Pico de Loro. The mountain is 664 meters above sea level.

Meeting time was 4 a.m. at the UP College of Medicine. I only had two hours of sleep and realized I was late. We were supposed to commute. But since there were 35 of us in the group, the organizers decided to hire two jeeps. The group left a little past 5 a.m.

We arrived at the Mounts Palay-Palay/Mataas na Gulod National Park in Ternate, Cavite about 8 a.m. no thanks to some kotong cops in Paranaque and traffic congestion in Cavite which we encountered. Pico de Loro is actually part of Mt. Palay-Palay (which is part of Maragondon, Cavite) and is said to be the highest point in Cavite. The other jump-off point for the mountain is in Nasugbu, Batangas. After registering at the DENR outpost, which is up the road from the gate of Puerto Azul, we were off.

It was a difficult first climb for me. We had not even reached the base camp but I was already panting badly since we had to go up and down Magnetic Hill and walk a distance more to get to the base camp. I was actually part of the lead pack and was able to follow them up to the foot of the mountain. But then my legs gave way and I ended up at the end. Talk about being physically pfffft! Add to the fact that it started to rain really hard and the path started to get muddy and slippery.

Poor sweepers, they had to keep me company as I made that arduous climb to the top. We made our way through forested areas and grasslands while the heavens opened its flood gates. Indeed, it was being one with nature. The push up was forgettable to me since I have difficulties hiking upwards. Good thing the refreshing view of the lush forests kept me going.

Then I heard the group from a distance. I was nearing the peak area. And finally, the last person up made it. And that was me! But the experience on top was unbelievable with strong gusts of wind and rain hitting the mountain. I just stood there, awed by nature’s force.

We had lunch at the peak area. I just brought crackers to fill me up. Most of the group went up further to the pillar area. But I was having cramps and opted to stay with the others who remained. Then they gave us the go signal for the descent as the rest of the group was making its way down from the pillar area. I decided to go with the first group since I knew I hiked slower and they could catch up with me anyway. For the most part, I hiked down alone, absorbing the view of the green forest around me. In fact, it was smooth sailing for me and I thought to myself I would be back in the DENR outpost in no time.

I caught up with the lead pack at the base camp and joined them when they left the camp. We were warned by the caretaker about a very confusing fork but I didn’t get the details since the others took care of that. But to make the long story short, we missed that confusing turn. Poor me, I got an "extra" hike since we ended up walking towards the Maragondon Trail which was longer, muddier, narrower, and more slippery. And we only realized it after 40 minutes walking along that very, very muddy trail. Imagine we had to walk back the same trail.

It was getting dark and my group was pushing me to hike faster so that we could make it back before it got real dark and visibility became zero. Until we finally found the confusing fork, and I ranted that DENR or whoever manages the park knows so many people miss that fork, why don’t they put up visible signs pointing hikers to the right direction! Well, it wasn’t over since it was still a long hike up Magnetic Hill. Damn!

No amount of words could describe how I felt when I saw the road. Arriving at the DENR outpost, the feeling of relief when I sat on the bench was indescribable. Over-all it was all fun, but hell while I was hiking up. Haha! And to think that was just a Level 1 climb.

More photos in Multiply. Thanks to Siena Ona, Gideon Lasco, David Chan, Alric Mondragon and the rest of the gang for a great climb. Thank you as well to Sai Sicad (who was also a guest climber) for giving me that extra push on the way up the summit. Same goes to the lost group (Paolo Macasaet, Zhamir Umag, Angel Palabyab, Joseph Macaraya and Leah Mislang) for waiting for me every time I had to stop to catch my breath. And thanks to my brod Lemuel Narcise for inviting me. Should I climb another mountain?

Technorati Tags: ternate, maragondon, cavite, nasugbu, batangas, philippines, mountain, mountain climbing, nature, travel, travel blog, pico de loro

Siquijor: DPWH stupidity strikes again!

Remember that unfinished bridge the DPWH built in Loboc, Bohol (picture below) which was discontinued since it was going to hit a national cultural treasure, the Loboc Church and Belfry? Well, DPWH's lack of common sense is at it again. And this inutile agency will be damaging another national cultural treasure, the Lazi Church and Convent in Lazi, Siquijor.

According to the NCCA, the Lazi Church, which features wide wooden floorboards and coral stone walls, was built in 1857 by the Augustinian Recollects. It occupies two town blocks with a road separating the church and its large convent. And the DPWH is raising the said road by more than a meter! How stupid can they get? It's totally absurd given that the church, convent and the road which runs in between them are 30 meters above sea level.

Faisal Alih sent us this alarming picture. He notes that vehicles can no longer enter the convent grounds. He also pointed out that people will have a hard time walking between the two structures. The idiots in the DPWH reasoned out that they will build steps down anyway, but that's beside the point since the features of the place will be destroyed.

Jun Galang adds, "The important question is, are there floodings on the road that is the reason behind the construction? If there aren't, then the church will be endangered since water will flow from the street to the church compound, increasing humidity." He adds, "If the road runs in betwen the church and convent, the resulting elevation will ruin the harmony of the complex!"

It's time to move again! Mind you, it's the same DPWH regional office which built that stupid bridge in Loboc, Bohol, tried to demolish the centuries-old houses in Baclayon, Bohol and destroyed the Spanish and American colonial bridges in Alegria, Cebu. Let's all write or call the DPWH:

Hermogenes E. Ebdane, Jr.
Secretary
ebdane.jun@dpwh.gov.ph
(02) 3043221

Jerome M. dela Rosa
Director, Region VII
Region VII District Office
(032) 2348014

If the public was able to stop the construction of the bridge in Loboc, Bohol and the demolition of ancestral homes in Baclayon, Bohol; I'm sure we can also prevent the completion of this brazen disregard for heritage and utter lack of common sense which the DPWH is doing in Lazi, Siquijor.

Loco Loco Over Deco!
Shanghai... New York... Bombay... Miami... Rio de Janeiro... Manila... separated by oceans, continents, and time lines, what do these cities have in common?

Not much, except all cities are a treasure-trove of Art-Deco architecture! Come and take an arm-chair journey down the roaring 20's as we explore Manila's rich Art-Deco heritage! It's all about the age of speed, jazz, boogie-woogie and the American colonial experiment in the Philippines, do swing by and join us as we gather together and go loco over Deco!

Speaker: Ivan Man Dy
When: July 19, 2007 Thursday 6:00 PM
Where: Ortigas Foundation Library
For more information please call 6311231 local 222 (look for Aileen Matic) or e-mail ortigasfoundation@ortigas.com.ph

Technorati Tags: lazi, siquijor, loboc, bohol, philippines, heritage, conservation, architecture, travel, travel blog

Palawan: Underground river and more from Puerto Princesa

It’s been quite a while since the Philippines has had a new UNESCO World Heritage Site. The latest was still way back in 1999, with the inscription of two sites, Vigan and the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park known as the Underground River.

Batanes has tried several times to get in the list but never seems to make it because of human error I was told. Besides, some experts say Batanes is not ready for inscription. Aside from being culturally significant and well-preserved, the host community has to be ready for it. That means that the ordinary man on the street should know about the UNESCO inscription, how it will affect them, as well as the duties and responsibilities that accompany such an inscription. The Underground River is a prime example of how a local government, with the right political will and proper guidance from experts, can push proper conservation policies that could lead to inscription.

The park is the only one that is managed by a local government unit in fact. It was under the care of the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) before. But illegal logging was rampant. Newly-elected Puerto Princesa mayor, Edward Hagedorn brought then DENR Secretary Angel Alcala to the park to show him the illegal logging activities of the DENR personnel. This resulted in a memorandum that turned the whole area over to the city government.

Lucky day 07-07-07 was spent at the Underground River today via another group tour I booked from my hotel. According to UNESCO, “The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park features a spectacular limestone karst landscape with its underground river. A distinguishing feature of the river is that it flows directly into the sea, and the lower portion of the river is subject to tidal influences. The area also represents a significant habitat for biodiversity conservation. The site contains a full mountain to the sea ecosystem and protects forests, which are among the most significant in Asia.” This was the reason justification for its inscription in the prestigious list.

The ride to Sabang Beach, the jump-off point for the Underground River, is about two hours from the city center, with two stopovers: one as you leave the National Highway, and another at the Buenavista View Deck where you could savor a panoramic view of Ulugan Bay.

At Sabang Beach, you had to visit the park office to get a permit to visit the Underground River and book your boat to the river entrance. You could also opt to hike 2.1 kilometers up and down a mountain trail from Sabang to the river entrance. The group tours are really convenient since they took care of all the logistics. The PHP1300 I paid includes hotel pick-up, land travel to and from Sabang Beach, boat transfers from Sabang to the river entrance, all entrance fees, and lunch.

On the boat on the way to the river entrance, we were afforded stunning views of the limestone karst landscape that characterizes the park. The boat passed by a beach which I remember from my trip in 1997. Swimming is not allowed in the river entrance area which is why you had to hike up and down the Monkey Trail to get to that beach to swim.

At the river entrance, you had to sign their register, wear life jackets and protective helmets, and wait in line to board small boats with outriggers that would take you into the cave. Each boat had a battery-powered lamp in front which I would later find out while exploring the area, were charged with solar energy. Our boat guide was Toting, who is the most popular of the guides for his humor. In fact, he is sought after by visitors and is the one who appears when the Underground River is featured on television.

Indeed, he was hilarious, cracking jokes every now and then, breaking the silence inside the cave. It was a different world we entered, one covered in complete darkness, pierced by the solitary spotlight we had on board. Looking up, you would see different species of bats hanging from the ceiling, fast asleep. Their presence was obvious due to the pungent odor of guano, or bat dung, close to the mouth of the cave.

Flying around were cave swiflets (not bats as others mistake them for) that are most known for the nests they create from their saliva that become the main ingredient of nido soup. The formations inside the cave are spectacular. The speleothems (the cave formations or secondary mineral deposits) formed by thousands of years of mineral accumulation, were very interesting.

The Underground River in Puerto Princesa is the longest explored underground river in the world. A total of 8.2 kilometers have been discovered; 4.3 kilometers are navigable; but access to tourists is limited to 1.5 kilometers. You’ll have to get a special permit to explore the rest of the river.

Anyway, the tour inside the cave lasted about 45 minutes. In the picnic area, lunch was served by the guides. Just a warning though, watch out for the long-tailed macaque monkeys. If you let down your guard even just for a while, you might lose your lunch to them. Monitor lizards or bayawak also walk freely in the area.

After lunch, our group made its way back to Sabang Beach, and then the city center. But we made a brief stopover at Viet Ville to have more Vietnamese food. This time, I ordered chicken salad and beef ball soup.

Back in the city proper, I took a quick nap before heading to Balinsasayaw Restaurant where our group decided to have dinner. It was a full menu of nido soup, grilled meat and sea foods, and garlic crabs for us. Thanks to Oliver Banzon, Em’s friend, for treating us to a sumptuous dinner. The night wasn’t over since Rolly and Gigi Padilla treated us to drinks at Itoy’s Coffee just across the street. It was our last night and I was taking the Cebu Pacific flight back to Manila the next day. Although Rolly and Gigi were still staying another day for a Dos Palmas tour which completes any Puerto Princesa holiday. More photos in Multiply.

Palawan: Island-hopping in Honda Bay

Today I went island-hopping in Honda Bay, which consists of several islets that have become popular swimming, snorkeling and diving destinations among visitors. Visiting the different beaches was a great way to celebrate my 28th. Located in Sta. Lourdes, Puerto Princesa City about 12 kilometers east of the town proper. In the wharf, pump boats could be hired to the different islands. Some islands require entrance fees. And there are others which are privately owned. So you have to ask for permission to visit. The package tour (PHP1000) is inclusive of hotel pick-up, pump boat to the different islands, entrance fees and donations, and lunch.

Our first stop was Pandan Island. There are several huts and cottages on the island which visitors could use. You could also ask caretakers to get some coconuts to quench your thirst. Snorkeling was great around Pandan Island. And it was fun feeding the fish since they all swam towards you as you hold a piece of bread.

After an hour or two, we moved to Snake Island which was a two-kilometer sandbar shaped like a snake. It would have been fun to walk up to the end of the sandbar, but half way there, we started to get hungry. And high tide was setting in with parts of the sandbar starting to get submerged under water. So we decided to walk back to the huts where our tour operators served lunch.

Our last stop was Starfish Island. We got there just in time since it started to rain really hard and the winds started bring in strong waves. Starfish is known for its fine white sand and clear water that teems with starfish. The island had a sandbar encircling a lagoon which was a good thing since we were able to enjoy the warm water sans the strong waves.

Other islets in Honda include Cannon (Cowrie) Island, Bat Island, Lu-Ii Island (from "lulubog-lilitaw"), Meara Marina, and Senorita Island (the breeding site of lapu-lapu fish).

For dinner, we ate at Rene's Saigon Restaurant for some great Vietnamese food. It was a distance from the city center, past the airport in fact. But people frequented it despite its distance. When you take a tricycle, tell them you want to go to the chawlungan since they are not familiar with the restaurant name. I had my favorite bánh mì sandwiches and braised beef noodle soup. Thanks again to Rolly and Gigi for treating us out to dinner.

After dinner, we trooped to Legend Hotel where Rolly and Gigi were staying. We stayed at the lobby to chat and have some snacks when Mayor Hagedorn passed by. Anyway, we have another trip tomorrow and have to get up early. More photos in Multiply.

Technorati Tags: puerto princesa, palawan, philippines, beach, travel, travel blog, food, honda bay, island

Palawan: Around Puerto Princesa City, Palawan

This trip had been in the works since I purchased my Cebu Pacific PHP1 tickets. It's day 1 of my birthday trip to Palawan. The last time I was in Puerto Princesa was in 1997, exactly ten years ago. At the Manila Domestic Airport Terminal (I hope they replace this ageing airport soon), the line for the flight to Puerto Princesa was quite long already. Then I noticed an Express Counter for passengers without check-in luggage. I usually travel with my backpack only and it was just now that I noticed that counter. Anyway, there was no line so I got my boarding pass easily.

When I arrived in Puerto Princesa, I was picked up at the airport by the staff of Puerto Pension. I had asked the help of the DOT Regional Office to help me find a decent budget hotel. And from the list they sent me, I decided to stay there since they were the cheapest on the list, had airport transfers, free breakfast, and accepted credit cards. When I arrived in the hotel, I found out they also booked tours for you. So I decided to join the City Tour (PHP600) in the afternoon, the Honda Bay Island-hopping Tour (PHP1000) the next day, and the Underground River Tour (PHP1300) on Saturday. Lunch was included in the last two tours.

The van passed by for me at 1:30 p.m. The group first passed by the Plaza Cuartel and the Immaculate Conception Cathedral before proceeding to the Palawan Museum. The exhibits were what one would expect from a provincial government museum. I hope they get rid of these boring ways of presenting important artifacts by investing in world-class exhibits such as that of the National Museum in Manila. From there, we proceeded to the Butterfly Garden, a great place to view butterflies up close.

After a short walk inside, we were off to the Crocodile Farming Institute, now the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center since the place not only conserved crocodile species. Displayed in the main lobby of the center is the skeleton of the longest crocodile ever caught in Palawan, about six meters, although a nine-meter croc had been spotted after it fed on a child but was not caught. When this croc died, they opened up its stomach and found the remains of a person inside confirming what had previously been known. We also walked around tanks of baby crocs which the center breeds for leather production. At the back is a mini-zoo which features some species endemic to Palawan.

Next on the list was the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm, the only prison in the country without walls, where inmates are rehabilitated through productive and money-making activities such as farming and handicraft-making.

Opened in 1904, this was among the first major projects of the American colonizers in the island of Palawan. They had been looking for a place to exile “unwanted” persons that included prisoners and lepers. And both groups were sent to Palawan, the latter being sent to the Culion Leper Colony.

We made a brief stopover at Mitra Ranch, the home of former Speaker Ramon Mitra, Jr. which has been opened to visitors, before making our way back to the downtown area. But we stopped by this place called Baker’s Hill which is known for its breads and hopia.

In the town proper, I bought some souvenirs in the market. Then it was dinner with my tour group in the highly-recommended, by-reservation only Ka Lui Restaurant. In fact, we could not get a booking earlier than 8:30 p.m. You can ask your hotel to book for you.

Our city tour group clicked especially since we found out we had booked the same tours for the next two days. Thanks to Rolly & Gigi Padilla from San Francisco, CA for the dinner. It was a coincidence that Linda is an avid reader of my blog. So she insisted that she treat me out. Thanks again! And to the rest of the gang, Em de Guzman, Rommel Cruz, and Richard & Agnes Cordero, thanks for the company!

Back to Ka Lui, I did not expect what I saw. It was a very cozy place, full of paintings, décor and other artsy stuff. The whole place was almost made of bamboo. Customers had to take off their shoes at the entrance and walked barefoot in the restaurant. It was an all-seafood menu which included shrimps halabos, seafood sisig, kilawin, and crabs, eel or sting ray in coco cream among many others. Among their cool shakes are CocoBanana and Mango Pomelo. Although I’m a meat person, I enjoyed the seafood sisig and stuffed squid.

We enjoyed the place so much, we stayed until it closed at 11 p.m. There are more photos in my Multiply.

Technorati Tags: puerto princesa, palawan, philippines, beach, travel, travel blog, food, heritage, historical sites, crocodile, butterfly