Wednesday, November 06, 2013

India: Pony ride to the Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley in Sonamarg

Sonamarg: Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
A popular day-trip from Srinagar is a visit to the Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley in Sonamarg. For our last full day in Kashmir, we drove to Sonamarg to enjoy the cold weather and majestic views of the glaciers.

Sonamarg: Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
Sonamarg: Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
Along the way, we passed through small towns, busy markets and beautiful valleys and mountain scenery. We were lucky to drop by a souvenir store along the way where I bought colorful lacquer-painted trinket boxes with intricate designs, a popular Kashmiri craft. They came in various shapes such as regular boxes and animals including ducks, roosters and turtles.

Sonamarg: Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
We were on the road for three hours. I dozed off for most of the trip. Arriving at Sonamarg, you immediately notice the pleasant weather and fresh air!

A herd of sheep and goats welcomed us, making its way up the hills for greener pasture. As we observed and explored the vicinity, our coordinator arranged for our pony ride and guides. You can actually walk if you want to. It's about 7 kilometers from the main road to the jump-off point for the glaciers.

Sonamarg: Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
Sonamarg: Pony ride to Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
Many of us could say that among the activities we did in Kashmir, this was probably the best! It was a slow-paced ride that gave us fantastic views of Kashmir Valley. The pony ride takes 45 minutes per way.

Sonamarg: Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
Sonamarg: Pony ride to Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
At the end of the ride is a small camp where makeshift stalls selling snacks and drinks have been set-up. If you don't mind the garbage left by some visitors in the camp (not that much but still noticeable), the scenery was magnificent and perfect for a cup of coffee or a hot bowl of instant noodles which you can buy at the stalls.

Sonamarg: Pony ride to Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
About an hour after we arrived, we had to make our way back since it was way past lunch time! Everyone was hungry and we had to return to the main road and drive to the center of town where a sumptuous (but very late) lunch was waiting for us at a local inn.

We rushed back to Srinagar as soon as lunch was done since we wanted to visit the local market before flying back to Delhi the next day.

Sonamarg: Pony ride to Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley
Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

Tuesday, November 05, 2013

India: Houseboat accommodation in Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
We've all experienced different kinds of accommodation from luxury resorts and hotels to inns and hostels. They're all available in Srinagar in Kashmir, India as well. But if you want a more authentic experience in Srinagar, you have to stay at a houseboat.

Previous entry: Jamia Masjid & the Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir

Houseboats are part of the history and cultural landscape of Srinagar. There are hundreds of them, moored by the shores of Dal Lake and Nigeen Lake. Some historical accounts say these houseboats date back to English colonial rule in India since foreigners were not allowed to own land in Kashmir. And therefore they circumvented this rule by building floating houses on the lakes of Srinagar.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
And just like hotels, the quality also varies from budget to the luxurious. I had no idea what to expect.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation shikara
Our van parked at a small dock on one side of Dal Lake where shikaras (traditional boats) were waiting to take us and our luggage to the houseboats where we would be checking-in. We slowly made our way through the floating community complete with shops, specialty stores and services. The front of most of the houseboats had intricately-carved designs.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
The shikara docked beside a cluster of houseboats which I would later learn belonged to a single family. This allows them to welcome large groups, since a houseboat usually has four rooms each.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
I was floored when I entered our houseboat. The living room was a showcase of Kashmiri carpets and embroidery, with large chandeliers and massive wooden furniture. Beside it is a dining room where you are served your meals, usually part of the package since you can't find your own food here unless you hire a shikara and explore the lake.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
Srinagar houseboat accommodation
A carpeted hallway connects the four rooms, each with fabulous Kashmiri carpets, intricately-carved wooden beds, cabinets, wall details and ceilings, colorful embroidered curtains and linens (another Kashmiri tradition), chandeliers, and a bathroom with amenities one would expect from a hotel. No air-conditioning, but the cool weather and fans will ensure you sleep in complete comfort.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
We were served a sumptuous Kashmiri dinner shortly after we arrived.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
And since it's difficult to shop without a shikara, the vendors usually visit the houseboats at night, with large bags containing really good quality cashmere shawls, pashmina and silk scarves, leather clothing and accessories, and Kashmiri gems and jewelry among many others.

Srinagar houseboat accommodation Dal Lake
Srinagar houseboat accommodation
In the morning, you can catch the sunrise and watch locals begin their day as they move about in their boats. I'll talk about the vibrant floating community of Dal Lake in another post. The houseboat experience was definitely a pleasant surprise!

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
P.S. Each houseboat has a name, they can be anything under the sun from local names and foreign cities or countries to imitations and spoofs. Yes, they've got the Holiday Inn, the Kashmir Hilton, and even H.B. Manila and New Manila!

Srinagar houseboat accommodation
Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!

Monday, November 04, 2013

India: Jamia Masjid & the Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir

Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Srinagar, a city of ancient Mughal gardens, picturesque lakes and floating villages, is the capital of Kashmir, India. After enjoying the cool weather and majestic mountain views of Gulmarg, we made our way back to Srinagar to experience the city.

Previous entry: Picturesque views in Gulmarg, Kashmir

Jamia Masjid in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Jamia Masjid in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
We went straight to the Jamia Masjid, the grand mosque of Kashmir in its old city built by Sultan Sikandar Shah Kashmiri and completed in 1402AD. The mosque was destroyed several times by fire. And the current one, inspired by Indo-Saracenic architecture, is a quadrangle with a charming courtyard garden and four minarets with pyramidal roofs.

Jamia Masjid in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Jamia Masjid in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
From the courtyard, you can see the old Durrani Fort built on top of Hari Parbat Hill. We drove close to the fort as me made our way around Dal Lake. There were interesting mosques at the foot of the hill which I wish we had time to explore.

Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Just looking outside the van window kept us busy as we observed interesting facets of local life in Srinagar.

Our next stop was Nishat Bagh, a terraced Mughal garden built in 1633AD. We visited just at the right time as the late afternoon sun highlighted the vibrant colors of this ancient garden. Behind the garden are the Zabarwan Mountains.

Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Nishat Bagh Mughal garden in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Many locals visit the garden to relax and enjoy the beautiful flora. It's not uncommon to see groups seated together in colorful dresses.

View from Vivanta by Taj in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Before proceeding to the house boats on Dal Lake where we were to stay for the next two nights, we had tea while watching the sunset at Vivanta by Taj, a charming resort build on top of a hill with grand views of Dal Lake and the communities around it.

View of Dal Lake from Vivanta by Taj in Srinagar, Kashmir, India
Jet Airways flies daily to Srinagar!
Jet Airways has twice daily flights from Delhi (DEL) to Srinagar (SXR). Jet Airways also connects to Delhi from Manila via Bangkok, Singapore or Hong Kong at least twice daily!



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