Ivan About Town

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Scotland: Exploring the Isle of Skye

If you're still craving for more of the Scottish Highlands, then a visit to the islands is in order! Just a few kilometers from Eilean Donan is the Isle of Skye, the largest island of the Inner Hebrides, connected by a bridge to the Scottish mainland.

Skye is stunning! Too bad though we arrived too early in the year. Winter had barely said goodbye. So it was gloomy and at times rainy as we explored the island. But the scenery was still fantastic, although the sun and spring or summer blooms would have made the experience all the more pleasant.

The drive from the Kyle of Lochlash on mainland Scotland to the village of Kyleakin is about ten kilometers, crossing the Skye Bridge. There is a train service to Kyle of Lochalsh from Inverness. Then a bus will take you to the island. We stayed in Kyleakin for two nights. There are a good number of inns and hostels in the village.

In Kyleakin, we walked to Castle Moil (Caisteal Maol), a ruined 15th century castle and ancient seat of Clan Mackinnon. You can actually explore this picturesque fishing village in under an hour.

The next day, we drove around the island, stopping briefly at one of the barbed fences to catch a glimpse of Highland cattle, a Scottish breed of cattle with long horns and wavy coats.

We drove past Broadford, a village spread around a large bay, on the way to the Isle of Skye Brewing Co. where we sampled the local beer.

In Trotternish, the northernmost peninsula of the island, are restored blackhouses, traditional houses common in the Scottish Highlands. It also has stunning rock formations like the Old Man of Storr. We also visited Kilt Rock and Falls.

All the way, we enjoyed quaint view of small villages or isolated homes in the middle of nowhere. Even the iconic British red telephone box calls attention in the sparse landscape.

For lunch, we went to Portree, the largest town and capital of Skye. It has a small town square called Somerled Square. And there's Portree Harbour, another iconic image of Skye, with its colorful houses by the pier.

Driving around Skye, you won't miss the Cuillin, a mountain range that dominates the Skye landscape.

On our last day, we drove to Armadale to catch the ferry to Mallaig. This ferry crossing is another way to get to Skye. There is a train service from Glasgow to Mallaig with a convenient connection to the ferry service to Armadale.

Unfortunately, Dunvegan Castle, the ancestral home of the Clan MacLeod, had not yet opened for the year (it's closed during winter). So we missed visiting the castle, the oldest continuously inhabited castle in the whole of Scotland. Hopefully I get to visit Skye again at the height of spring or summer!

Part 1: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital
Part 2: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness
Part 3: Exploring the Isle of Skye
Part 4: Glencoe, Glenfinnan, spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands
Part 5: Glasgow's George Square at night

Also check out my photos of England, Scotland and Wales.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Scotland: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness

Eilean Donan Castle is an iconic landmark of Scotland. The castle is one of the most visited attractions in the Scottish Highlands.

It's actually an early 20th century reconstruction of an older castle, with fortifications that date back to the 13th century. The original castle was destroyed in 1719 during the Jacobite Uprising. A stronghold of the Clan Mackenzie and Clan Macrae, it lay in ruins for 200 years and was rebuilt between 1919 to 1932 as a war memorial to members of the Macrae clan who died during the First World War.

No doubt, it is one of the most photographed landmarks in Scotland. But much of our visit to Scotland was in cold gloomy weather. So we didn't get to see the picturesque castle as seen in postcards. The castle is open from February to December (£6.50 entrance free). And the best time to visit is during late spring or summer. Unless you have your own transport, it's best to join a tour from Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Inverness.

On the way to Eilean Donan from Edinburgh, we stopped by Fort Augustus, at the southwestern end of Loch Ness. The town has a Loch Ness View Point and maybe you might just see the Loch Ness monster. Another attraction is the Caledonian Canal which joins various lochs from Fort William to Inverness. We literally had a few minutes to explore since we needed to be in the castle before 5 p.m. The distance from Edinburgh to Eilean Donan is a little over 300 kilometers which is a four-hour trip.

From Eilean Donan, we proceed to the Isle of Skye, about 15 kilometers away.

Part 1: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital
Part 2: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness
Part 3: Exploring the Isle of Skye
Part 4: Glencoe, Glenfinnan, spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands
Part 5: Glasgow's George Square at night

Also check out my photos of England, Scotland and Wales.

Scotland: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital

A medieval fortress dominates the skyline of Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. Edinburgh Castle stands at the head of Old Town, one of two distinct historic districts of the city. The Old and New Towns of Edinburgh are inscribed in the World Heritage List.

Old Town, with its medieval street plan and Reformation-era buildings, is the oldest part of the city. St. Margaret's Chapel, built in 1130 and the oldest building in the city, can be found in Edinburgh Castle. A visit to Edinburgh will not be complete without a trip to the castle (£16 entrance fee for adults).

View of New Town from Edinburgh Castle

The castle, once a shelter to Scottish royalty, also has several museums, the Scottish National War Memorial, and the Scottish Crown Jewels. The crown, scepter and sword are the oldest in the British Isles. One gets a great view of Old Town and New Town from Edinburgh Castle.

From Edinburgh Castle, a road called the Royal Mile (approximately one Scots mile long) leads down to Holyrood Palace. It's actually a succession of streets that include Castlehill at the top, followed by Lawnmarket, the High Street, the Canongate and finally Abbey Strand. Many of Edinburgh's historic landmarks are located on these streets.

Canongate Tollbooth was built in 1591 as a tollbooth, courthouse, burgh jail and meeting place

If you are a fan of Harry Potter, make sure to turn right at George IV Bridge, which is between Lawnmarket and High Street, to visit The Elephant House. This café is the birthplace of Harry Potter since it's one of the café's where J.K. Rowling wrote her first Harry Potter novel.

Scottish National Parliament, Edinburgh, Scotland

In front of Holyrood Palace is the Scottish Parliament Building, designed by Catalan architect Enric Miralles, who passed away before it was completed in 2004.

Holyrood Palace is the official residence of Queen Elizabeth II in Scotland, and has been the main residence of the Kings and Queens of Scots since the 16th century.

The ruins of Holyrood Abbey are adjacent to the palace.

The former royal hunting estate is now Holyrood Park, a 260-hectare royal park with many hills, lochs, glens, ridges and basalt cliffs. Arthur's Seat, a 251-meter hill, provides fantastic views of Edinburgh.

View of Old Town from Princes Street in New Town

New Town was built between 1765 and 1850, a showcase of neoclassical and Georgian period architecture. Princes Street is the main shopping street in Edinburgh where you'll find some of the most popular names in fashion. Buildings are located on the north side of the street. The south side is mostly trees and open space, which allows beautiful panoramic views of Old Town and Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh is a perfect introduction to Scotland. I had my first taste of haggis, Scotland's national dish, in Edinburgh. Haggis is a savory pudding made from sheep's heart, lungs, and liver minced with onion, oatmeal, suet and spices.

We also had our introduction to bagpipes and traditional Scottish music in Edinburgh. Check out the videos I took.