Palawan: Culion Island, where the Philippines eliminated leprosy

Culion was called the Island of the Living Dead or the Island of No Return. Once the largest leper colony in the world, it stands today as a stark reminder of life in the Philippines when leprosy was still an incurable disease, and a testament to how leprosy was eradicated not just in the Philippines but in the entire world, and how technology and advances in medicine have improved and changed the way we live today.

Culion was selected as the containment area of all those with leprosy in the Philippines during the American Period. At that time, leprosy was still an incurable disease. And the only way to stop its spread was to isolate all those afflicted with it. People with leprosy were rounded up like criminals to be sent to the island, most certainly to die given that there was no cure. That is why it was called the Island of No Return.

The government apprehended lepers, detained them and sent them for isolation on Culion Island. Families knew that when a leprous member of the family was collected for segregation, that would be the last time they would see him or her. Ships brought patients to Culion every three months. And by its 25th year, there were 16,138 patients on Culion's roster making it the largest leper colony in the world.

Because of the large number of patients, Culion naturally became a laboratory for scientists around the world who had striven to look for a cure for leprosy. That's why Culion's legacy makes the Culion Museum worth visiting if you have both time and a budget for it.

Boats to Culion from Coron cost between Php3,000 to 3,500. But you could do visit Culion plus parts of the Coron Loop in one day. Or a Culion visit plus Banana and Malcapuya Islands. There are ferry services which leave at lunch and late in the afternoon. But that would mean sleeping overnight on the island.

We left Coron at 8:30 a.m and arrive in Culion at about 10 a.m. Culion Church, Fort Culion, the Culion Sanitarium and its museum are all in one area. From the port, it's a 10 minute walk up the hill where they're all located. But tricycles are available to bring you there.

Again, if only for the visit to the museum at the Culion Sanitarium, the trip is worth it since it ably tells the story of Culion and makes you appreciate life as it is today. Museum fees are Php250 for foreigners, Php100 for non-locals, Php50 for locals, and Php20 for students with IDs. To be sure the museum is open, it's best to call before hand.

Culion Museum and Archives
+63 928 2812276
+63 921 5787152
+63 919 3779757

Where to stay in Culion
The Tabing Dagat Lodging House & Restaurant is situated right beside the port. Fan rooms start at Php450; while aircon rooms start at Php900.

Tabing Dagat Lodging House & Restaurant
Brgy. Balala, Culion, Palawan
+63 928 6757473
+63 920 2779327
+63 920 4056659

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Things to do in Coron, Busuanga and Culion, Palawan
Coron hotels, transportation and more stuff to help you plan your trip

Palawan: Things to do in Coron, Busuanga and Culion, Palawan

Coron, Busuanga and Culion, together with Linapacan and over a hundred more smaller islands comprise the Calamianes Islands of Palawan. You may have overlooked Busuanga as a holiday destination but take note, there are tons of things to do in the area. Here are 10 of the many reasons for you to plan a trip to the Calamianes.

1. Swim in Cayangan Lake, Twin Lagoon or Barracuda Lake
Three of the many lakes on Coron Island are favorites among tourists, part of the usual Coron Loop boat rides. These lakes are where salt and fresh water are said to mix. Cayangan Lake is said to be one of the cleanest freshwater lakes in the country. It's a fifteen minute climb up and down from the jump-off point. Barracuda Lake is a short but rocky climb, only for the adventurous. Twin Lagoon is easily accessible by boat. Dare to swim through the underwater tunnel to the other lake that cannot be reached by boat. Entrance fee to Cayangan Lake is Php200 and Php100 each for Twin Lagoon and Barracuda Lake.

2. Snorkel at Siete Pecados or the Japanese ship wrecks
Part of the Coron Loop is the Siete Pecados Marine Park or the Seven Islands which is a very popular place for snorkeling. But there are other areas around Coron where you can snorkel. Make sure to bring bread if you want to feed the fish! Entrance fee to the park is Php100.

Another option would be to visit the many shallow WWII wrecks around Coron. There the East Tangat Gunboat and the Lusong Gunboat which has good corals also. Entrance fees to each wreck is usually Php100. If you don't have a mask, you can rent one for about Php100 and fins for Php150.

3. Enjoy the sun and sand at Coron's beaches
Banol Beach is a small, clean, and quiet beach which is a favorite among tourists. It's perfect for picnics. But don't venture too far from the shore since there are a lot of sea urchins. Another recommended beach is Atwayan Beach. Entrance fees to the beaches is also Php100 per beach. CYC beach has nice snorkelling and no entrance fee.

4. Visit Malcapuya Island, Banana Island, or Malaroyroy Island
They may be a distance from Coron, usually an hour and a half or more by boat. But these islands have some of the best white sand beaches in the Calamianes. No wonder a lot of people visit them despite their distance.

Malcapuya also has accommodations for those who want to stay overnight. E-mail malcapuyaisland@yahoo.com for inquiries or reservations. Boats to the island cost about Php3,500.

5. Experience the unique history of Culion Island
While we all go to Palawan to experience its natural wonders, tourists visit Culion for its history. Culion provides a stark reminder of how technology and advances in medicine have improved and changed the way we live today. Culion was selected as the containment area of all those with leprosy in the Philippines during the American Period. At that time, leprosy was still an incurable disease. And the only way to stop its spread was to isolate all those afflicted with it.

If only for the visit to the museum at the Culion Sanitarium, the trip is worth it since it makes you appreciate life as it is today. Work done in Culion by doctors from around the world is said to have led to treatments that eventually found a cure to the disease. Museum fees are Php250 for foreigners, Php100 for non-locals, Php50 for locals, and Php20 for students with IDs.

Culion is a 90-minute boat ride from Coron. Don't forget to visit the Culion Church and the ruins of Fort Culion right behind the church. Boats cost about Php3,000. There are ferry services which leave at lunch and late in the afternoon. But that would mean sleeping overnight on the island.

6. Go on a safari in Calauit Island
We've all heard about this Marcos creation. While the Calauit Island Wildlife Reserve is a far cry from a real African safari, it's the best one available without having to leave Philippine territory.

There are three ways to get to Calauit from Coron. If you're on a tight budget but with two days to spare, a public bus leaves Coron at 11 a.m. and arrives at 4 p.m. in Brgy. Buluang, 14 kilometers further away from the Busuanga town proper. Bus fare is Php140/person. From Sitio Macalachao in Buluang, it's a ten minute boat ride to Calauit. There's a Php400 rental fee per boat.

Arriving late in the afternoon also means having to stay overnight on the island. There are four rooms with three beds each at Php200/head. Contact Froilan Sariego for the rooms (0921) 2155482. Make sure to wake up for the 7 to 9 a.m. feeding time of the animals. Celphone signal is available from 9 to 11 a.m. and 2 to 4 p.m.

If you only have a day, then van rental is recommended. It costs Php6,000 per van plus the Php400 boat rental fee. The van can leave Coron at 4 a.m. for the three-hour trip to get you to Calauit in time for the feeding. The last way is to take a boat from Coron all the way to Calauit. And that would cost you Php7,500 for up to 5 persons.

Rates are Php350 for adult foreigners and Php250 for children below 11, Php250 for Filipinos and Php150 for children below 11, Php150 for NGO and government workers with IDs, and free of charge for senior citizens and the disabled.

7. Climb the 719 steps to the top of Mt. Tapyas
It's great exercise climbing up to the cross and view deck on top of Mt. Tapyas. The views are best during sunset. If you're not satisfied with that, try out Mt. Tandalara at 936 MASL, the highest point in Northern Palawan. It's a five hour hike up and down.

8. Take a dip at the Maquinit Hot Springs
I was surprised to find out that this was a salt water hot spring. Water temperature starts at 40 degrees Celsius. It's best to come after 6 p.m. when the air is cooler. The pool closes at about 10 p.m. You'll need to hire a tricycle to get there and back. It would cost about Php300. While the entrance fee is Php100.

9. Explore Coron by kayak or paddle boat
For the physically fit, this is one adventure you should try out. Single kayaks can be rented out at Php250, while double kayaks go for Php450.

10. Go scuba diving!
I've saved the best for last. But you'll need a license for this one. Coron is ranked among the top dive sites in the world. So this is something you should not miss!

If that's not enough for you to do, El Nido is 6 to 7 hours by ferry from Coron. Ferry fare is Php2,200 one-way. Have fun!

Related entry
Coron hotels, transportation and more stuff to help you plan your trip

Palawan: Coron hotels, transportation and more stuff to help you plan your trip

Coron, Palawan, named one of the Top 10 dive sites in the world by Forbes Traveler, ranks among Philippine destinations that we can truly call paradise. It's no doubt a world-class diving destination! But Coron is not just about diving. And the past few days that I've been here, Coron has not failed to impress. Here are some tips to help you plan your Coron trip.

To get to Coron, you could travel by air or by sea. From the Coron Port, you could easily get a tricycle to the center of town. But the Busuanga Airport is another story.

There are several airlines that fly to Busuanga. The Busuanga Airport is about 30 minutes away from Coron. Unless you've pre-arranged pick-up with your hotel, you might have no choice but to hire a van to take you to Coron which is about Php1,500.

Like in most of my trips, I just walked out of the airport and asked around. It turns out, there is are shuttles which you could take for Php150/head that drops you off at your hotel in Coron. If you still don't have a hotel, you can ask help from the driver.

I went around and here is a list of some of the hotels I liked. We decided to stay at Seadive Resort since it's close to the market and the center of town. Plus, if you're low on cash, they accept credit cards for rooms, food and diving services.

It's the only PADI certified dive center in Coron and the only resort in Palawan with a certified recompression chamber. That's why it's rated Gold Palm 5 Star by PADI. They have a good restaurant, plus many of the best restaurants in Coron are just a few meters away. Rooms start at Php400 for Fan Rooms with common bathroom to Php1,400 for the Deluxe Room.

Busuanga Seadive Resort
+63 920 9458714
+63 918 4000448

Coron Ecolodge Hotel

+63 906 4556090
+63 919 2048824
inquiry@myhometelphilippines.com


A few hundred meters away, along the National Highway and close to the town plaza are other good options for accommodation. Coron Village Lodge and Darayonan Lodge are beside each other. While Princess of Coron is a few meters inside. But they have some of the better rooms and a swimming pool too.

Coron Village Lodge
+63 2 8053414
+63 928 2020819
+63 916 4200252
becfernandez@coronvillagelodge.com

Darayonan Lodge
+63 917 5866098
+63 2 4375785
+63 917 8811151
+63 908 7732964

Princess of Coron
+63 919 4095548

The best hotel in town is no doubt the Coron Gateway Hotel which is right beside the market. The spacious and luxurious rooms however aren't cheap but definitely worth the extra pesos. In fact, the bathrooms alone are bigger than some hotel rooms in Coron! Each room is a Junior Suite. Those with one queen bed cost Php3,500. Those with two queen beds cost Php5,500. While the Presidential Suite, complete with living room and kitchen are Php7,500 a night. But being a new hotel, they still don't accept credit cards. So you'll have to bring a lot of cash.

Coron Gateway Hotel
+63 2 8877107
+63 48 7231659
+63 921 7232456
+63 929 7955049

GMG Hotel
+63 2 7363187
+63 919 5961172
+63 918 9475871
+63 939 8456837
gmghotelcoron@yahoo.com.ph

For budget accommodation, you may also try the following:

Balaibinda Lodge
+63 927 9072164
+63 908 2185181
+63 922 4512441
info@balaibinda.com

Coron Reef Calamianes Pension House
+63 919 8877151
+63 9194501606

Getting around Coron and the nearby islands is very easy since there are a lot of pump boats for hire. While the Calamian Tourist Boat Association has standard rates, they may vary depending on the season, your haggling capabilities and the condition of the sea (since larger boats may be needed if the waters are not as calm as they should be).

But to give you an idea, there are three different rates depending on the size of the boat which could accommodate 1 to 5, 6 to 8, and 10 to 15 persons respectively. Here are some of the suggested rates for the small boats which could accommodate 1 to 5 people:

Coron Island and vicinity - Php1,500
Culion Island - Php2,500 (Php3,000 is still a good price)
Malcapuya/Banana/Malaroyroy - Php2500 (Although I haven't found anyone who would agree to this rate. It's usually Php3,000 to 3,500)
Calumbuyan Island - Php3,000
Calauit Island - Php7,500

Tricycles rates start at Php8 per head. But if you'll hire one for Maquinit Hot Spring, it would cost you up to Php300 round-trip since they'll wait for you there. More Coron adventures coming up.

Related entry
Things to do in Coron, Busuanga and Culion, Palawan