Indonesia: What to see in Medan & North Sumatra

So I decided to fly to Medan to cross out Sumatra from my list of places to visit. Medan is the capital of North Sumatra (Sumatera Utara). The main attraction of North Sumatra is Lake Toba, a five-hour land trip from Medan. But the city has some interesting heritage buildings and is a melting pot of different cuisines making it a very popular food tourism destination.

Bus to Medan from Kualanamu International Airport (KNO)
The new Kualanamu International Airport is about 40 kilometers from Medan. There are many ways to get to Medan from the airport. The cheapest way is by taking the Damri Airport Bus which costs Rp10,000 to the Amplas Terminal (which is far from the city center) and Rp15,000 to the downtown area.

From Amplas, you can take an angkot (public minivan) to the downtown area, about Rp6,000. Angkots have route numbers on them. So make sure to ask your hotel what angkot number to take from Amplas and where to get off. Note though that it can get really tight and uncomfortable. So it's not a good idea if you have lots of luggage. Buses out of Medan also leave from Amplas. So if you are going to Lake Toba, you can take a bus to Parapat directly from Amplas.

If you take the Damri bus all the way to the downtown area, find out which stop is closest to your hotel. You can hire a becak (trishaw); but knowing you just came from the airport, they'll try to charge you as much as they can. But it shouldn't cost more than Rp15,000 to Rp20,000.

The fastest way from Kualanamu to Medan is by train. It will take about 45 minutes and costs Rp80,000. That will depend of course if there is a train leaving when you exit the airport (wait is between 1 to 2 hours between trips). The most convenient way is of course by taxi. But that will set you back by at least Rp150,000.

What to see in Medan
Unfortunately, most people you'll encounter in Medan don't speak English. So it's quite difficult to communicate. A Bahasa Indonesia phrasebook may come in handy. Since there are just a few attractions in the city, getting around can be easy if you know what angkut number passes by them. You can also haggle with a becak to take you to them (difficult to bargain with them though if you can't speak the language since they know you are a tourist) or take a Blue Bird taxi for comfort.

The major attractions are the Masjid Raya Al-Mashun and Istana Maimun (Maimun Palace). Masjid Raya Al-Mashun is definitely a landmark of Medan and the largest mosque in North Sumatra. It was built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid from 1906 to 1909. Designed by Dutch architects (initially by van Erp; but work was continued by A.J. Dingemans), many of the materials were imported including chandeliers from France, tiles from Italy and stained glass windows from China.

The main dome has an octagonal floor plan. There are four domed wings attached to the main building and four arched hallways connecting the wings. Architectural influences from both Europe and the Middle East are evident.

Outside the mosque is a cemetery where many members of the royal family are buried. A minaret stands proudly in one corner of the property, where calls to prayer echo from loud speakers attached to the top.

Note that shorts are not allowed inside the mosque. You will be asked to wear a sarong. Mandatory contributions for visitors are requested when you register at the gate, usually between Rp5,000 to Rp20,000. And you will also be asked to contribute to the shoe deposit when you take off your shoes or slippers as you enter the main building.

The Istana Maimun (Maimoon Palace) was the royal palace of the Sultanate of Deli and built by Sultan Makmun Al Rasyid (Tuangku Ma'moen Al Rasyid) in 1888. Just like the mosque, the mix of architectural styles (Malay, Dutch, Turkish, Spanish, etc.) is very evident.

Although the current sultan no longer wields political power, he still lives in the palace. But visitors are allowed to explore the throne room. There's a Rp5,000 fee to enter. Inside, you can also dress like the sultan and the royal family. Rental fee for the baju is Rp10,000.

Another attraction I got to visit is the Kuil Shri Mariamman (Shri Mariamman Temple), a Hindu temple built in 1884. One heritage landmark I missed was the Tjong A Fie Mansion which has many similarities to Penang's Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion.

Now time to find out what to eat in Medan, Indonesia!

Extended MRT-3 operating hours beginning Monday

Extended MRT-3 operating hours will be tested by the DOTC and MRT-3 for one month beginning on Monday, February 24, 2014 to give further traffic-mitigating options to the public, according to DOTC spokesperson Dir. Michael Arthur Sagcal.

"From February 24 to March 7, [MRT-3] will start at 4:30 a.m. (from the North Ave. station) and 5:00 a.m. (from the Taft Ave. station), instead of 5:30 a.m. for both. From March 10 to 21, the last trips will run at 10:30 p.m. (from North Ave.) and 11:00 p.m. (from Taft) instead of 10:30 p.m., in addition to the earlier start of operations.

"The one-month testing period will allow [DOTC] to see whether commuters are willing to change their riding habits to earlier and later trips, and whether motorists will prefer to take the train over their cars. [DOTC] will also be able to assess its impact on nightly maintenance hours and operational costs for long-term sustainability."

PNR Special Coach from Sta. Rosa, Laguna to Tutuban, Manila
Another traffic-mitigating measure that the DOTC is rolling out is a PNR Special Coach service from Santa Rosa, Laguna to Tutuban, Manila. This will provide an alternative to those affected by the construction of the Skyway Stage 3 and NAIA Expressway, especially for motorists and commuters coming from the southern part of Metro Manila and Laguna.

According to Dir. Sagcal, "On March 3, the PNR will launch a Special Coach service, which will ply the Tutuban, Manila to Sta. Rosa, Laguna commuter rail line. These air-conditioned Special Coaches will have fixed seating, on-board comfort rooms, reclining seats, and a lounge area. Up to 120 people can take [the service] per trip.

"The Special Coach service will leave the Tutuban Station at 5:47 a.m. and 4:17 p.m.; and will leave the Sta. Rosa station at 8:00 a.m. and 6:08 p.m. daily. To get to the Buendia station in Makati, it takes 31 minutes from Tutuban, and 1 hour and 15 minutes from Sta. Rosa.

"Minimum fare is P60.00, which is good for the first 32 kilometers. For those traveling beyond this distance (the entire length of the commuter line is 48 kilometers), the fare is P90.00.

"More Special Coach trips may be added, depending on ridership demand. The PNR will also extend the operations its regular commuter line service, from the current 5 a.m. to 7 p.m., to the extended hours of 4 a.m. to 8 p.m."

Thailand: Wat Phra That Lampang Luang in Lampang

Wat Phra That Lampang Luang or the Temple of Lampang's Great Budhha Relic is a Lanna-stlye Buddhist temple in Lampang, Thailand. From Sukhothai, we proceeded by land to Chiang Mai, making a brief stop at this revered temple in Lampang. It's said to be the most beautiful wooden Lanna temple in northern Thailand. We had now crossed into the territory of the old Lanna Kingdom, which was a separate kingdom until 1775.

When Buddha was cremated, there was a rush to collect bones and ashes as relics which have been venerated for centuries in temples such as this all over Asia. The relic is in the main chedi of the temple. The fortified temple or wiang, built on top of a mound and surrounded by high walls, dates back to 1476 and is said to be the oldest surviving wooden structure in Thailand.

A very intricate gilded altar or mondop is the highlight of Wihan Phra Put, the main prayer hall or wihan where the image of Phra Chao Lan Ton (Buddha Lan Ton), a bronze statue of the Buddha, is enshrined. There are other wihans, some of them containing traces of the original murals, which means they may also be among the oldest in Thailand.

At the back is a structure which only men can enter. Close the doors to be able to see a camera obscura image of the wihan and chedi projected upside down on a white cloth. Another camera obscura image can be found in Wihan Nam Tam, the wihan with a three-tiered roof.

On the way out, you will pass by a sacred Bodhi tree symbolically supported by dozens of wooden poles offered by devotees, a Lanna ritual. Every year, during the Songkran or Thai New Year, the Northern Thais hold the Hae Mai Kam Salee, a ritual of the Bodhi tree's pole. The Bodhi tree represents Buddhism and placing supporting poles beneath the tree's branches signifies the support of the laity.

This temple is about 20 kilometers from Lampang itself. We were rushing from Sukhothai since they closed the temple before 5 p.m. Good thing we made it! After that brief visit, we were off to Chiang Mai for dinner.

Thailand: Si Satchanalai Historical Park in Sukhothai Province

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is one of three ancient towns included in the World Heritage inscription Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns. If Sukhothai was the political and administrative capital, Si Satchanalai served as the spiritual center of the kingdom, with its many temples and Buddhist monasteries. The town is 90 kilometers from Sukhothai.

As part of the tourism workshop we attended in Sukhothai, the plan was to bike all the way to Si Satchanalai. But plans were changed and we took a van to Sawankhalok, and did the bicycle tour to Si Satchanalai from there. The 40-kilometer bike trip ended at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, a first class royal temple three kilometers outside the Si Satchanalai wall.

Other major temples and sites are located within the old town of Si Satchanalai. Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo is one of the most beautiful temples of Sukhothai Province. Its features include a main chedi and 33 subordinate chedis. The temple is believed to have kept the cremated remains of the Sukhothai royal family.

Wat Chang Lom's main landmark is a bell-shaped chedi on a platform supported by 39 stucco elephants. Between the chedi and the platform are niches with statues of Buddha subduing Mara.

Delicate stucco reliefs have survived on one of the walls of Wat Nang Phaya. The wall is protected by a roof to prevent further damage from the elements.

Thailand: Sukhothai Historical Park

Sukhothai, Thailand was the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam during the 13th and 14th centuries. Most of the ruins of this ancient city are located within the Sukhothai Historical Park. Together with Si Satchanalai and Kampaheng Phet, they form the Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns, a World Heritage Site. And since it is a World Heritage Site, it was definitely on my bucketlist!

During my first visit, despite the gloomy skies, I still went ahead with the seven hour bus ride from Bangkok to Sukhothai just to visit its famed temples. I had learned upon my arrival that much of Sukhothai was submerged under water just a few days before. In fact, there were sandbags all over the place and you could see that the water level of the rivers was high. On the way to the park, it was still raining. But when I arrived, the rain suddenly stopped and the sun came out later in the day. So I was lucky!

While it's not difficult to walk around the park, you can rent a bike or hire a motorbike or tuktuk to speed up your pace visiting the ruins scattered around the park. I hired a motorbike with driver from my hostel to take me around.

Last year, I was back again in Sukhothai for a workshop of the ICOMOS International Cultural Tourism Committee. This time, the weather was beautiful and the sun was out! Wat Mahathat was the largest and principal temple of Sukhothai. The wat is surrounded by a wall that is said to represent the outer wall of the universe. Around the wall is a moat representing the cosmic ocean. The large Buddha images and chedi spires in the lotus-bud motif are iconic images which adorn many photos from Sukhothai. If you look closely, you will see that some of the original bas relief details layared with stucco can still be seen at Wat Mahathat.

There are so many ruins and historical sites in the park. And depending on your level of interest (for some, if you've seen one, you've seen them all), you can try to visit all the major ones, about twenty or so, or select the more interesting sites if you want to take it slow.

Another famous temple is Wat Si Sawai which features three Khmer-style towers. It reminds me of Angkor Wat, and was in fact, built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple. Wat Sa Si is a temple that is built on an island in the middle of Traphang Trakuan Pond.

Then there is Wat Si Chum which features an eleven-meter Buddha image covered in stucco seated inside a brick Mandapa building. This 13th century temple is also known as the Temple of the Bodhi Tree. I had a photo taken right beside the Buddha's large hand that has been covered in gold leaf offered by devotees.

I can't remember how many temples I got to visit. I tried to visit them all since it's a single ticket for all the temples within the inner city, and another ticket for all those outside. Hopefully you don't get all templed-out before seeing them all because each Sukhothai temple is definitely worth a visit.