Hong Kong: Birthday of Tam Kung Festival 譚公誕 at Shau Kei Wan

Speaking of festivals, I was lucky that three major Hong Kong festivals coincided with our trip. The Cheung Chau Bun Festival 長洲太平清醮, Birthday of Lord Buddha 佛誕, and the Birthday of Tam Kung 譚公誕 all fall on the same day, the eighth day of the fourth lunar month, which was May 21 this year. I was able to visit two of them.

While my family was making their way to Hong Kong Disneyland, I took the MTR to Shau Kei Wan, where the Tam Kung Temple is located, to watch the procession that celebrates the Birthday of Tam Kung 譚公誕.



Tam Kung is a very respected deity among the fishermen and boat people of Hong Kong. He is associated with safety at sea. He was said to have blessed seafarers during the Yuan Dynasty and was known for his weather forecasting and curing diseases.



The procession to the temple, which lasts from 10 a.m. to 12 noon, includes people dressed as gods in Chinese fairy tales, drums and gongs, lion, unicorn and dragon dances, food offerings and fa pau (or paper floral shrines).

Macau: A-Ma Festival and Chinese opera at A-Ma Temple 媽閣廟

The A-Ma Festival was celebrated this year on May 6, the day we arrived in Macau. It falls on the 23rd day of the third month of the lunar calendar. We may have missed the festival day itself. But the festivities continued until May 8.


According to historical accounts, the A-Ma Temple 媽閣廟 (Temple of Barra) was said to be the point where Portuguese sailors first landed in Macau, thus starting centuries of cultural and economic exchange between China and Europe. The temple is among the historical structures inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Historical Centre of Macao.

It is also said that the name Macau come from A-Ma Gau which means Bay of A-Ma. The main prayer hall is dedicated to the Tin Hau 天后 goddess or Matsu 媽祖, the patroness of seafarers and fishermen, a Taoist deity which the locals refer to as A-Ma. But the temple has shrines to other deities from Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism which is an exemplary representation of Chinese popular religion which integrates all three.



As part of the A-Ma Festival, there were five days of Chinese opera (May 4 to 8) in a specially-constructed bamboo shed. We were lucky to be given access to the dressing room behind the stage where the actors were silently preparing and practicing their lines. The group performing came all the way from Guandong Province. We stayed for a while to catch parts of the performance, but not too long since it was hot and humid plus we had a schedule to follow.


Outside the temple, in Barra Square, a lion dance performance was taking place which happens every Saturday afternoon of May, organized by the Macau Government Tourism Office (MGTO). The next morning, when we returned to the A-Ma Temple, we caught the Portuguese dance performance in Barra Square at noon, also organized by the MGTO for all the Sundays of May.

Macau: Antonio Restaurante (Taipa), Miramar (Coloane), Clube Militar de Macau and more Portuguese restaurants in Macau

Who said you need to fly to Portugal to have a taste of authentic Portuguese food? Macau being a former Portuguese colony, is a haven for Portuguese cuisine. To add, it has a healthy community of expat Tugas who own many of the Portuguese restaurants.


For our second night, we had dinner at Miramar Portuguese Food in Coloane Island. The restaurant is by the beach and has both indoor and outdoor dining. Our dinner included Sonhos de Bacalhau (Codfish Dreams) HK$/MOP37, Rissois de Camarao (Shrimp Rissois) HK$/MOP40, Bacalhau Assado na Brasa (Steamed Salt Codfish served with Boiled Potato, Chick Peas, Eggs and Cabbage) HK$/MOP148, Frango Assado no Carvao com Batata Frita e Salada (Barbecued Chicken with French Fries and Salad) HK$/MOP120, and the highlight of the night Perna de Carneiro Assada no Forno con Batata Assada (Oven-cooked Leg of Lamb with Roast Potatoes) HK$/MOP298. I personally like the Barbecued Chicken and Leg of Lamb which comes with a special mint sauce on the side.

We even had Portuguese beer, vinho verde branco and brandy to go with our dinner. The owner, Antonio Peralta, was a very gracious host. While behind the success of the kitchen is Afro-Portuguese chef Rosa Maria Conceicao.


For our third night, we had dinner at the Michelin-recommended Antonio Restaurante on Taipa Island. It's a really small but cozy restaurant in Taipa's old quarter. We actually joined Chef Antonio Coelho in the morning at Macau's Red Market as he shopped for the freshest ingredients for our dinner.

That evening, we had Presunto Portugues Pata Negra ("Pata Negra" Portuguese Smoked Ham) HK$/MOP255 for starters. Then he served us something not in the menu, Camarao con Quejo (Prawn Cocktail with Spicy Cow Cheese from Azores). You can actually ask Chef Antonio to prepare dishes that are not in the menu as many of his regulars do.


Then came in the Arroz de Marisco a "Antonio" Servido em Tacho de Barro (Seafood Rice "Antonio" Style Served in a Ceramic Pot) HK$/MOP400 and the Secretos de Porco Preto Grelhados no Carvao com Batata Frita e Salada Mista (Black Pork Fillets imported from Portugal on Charcoal Barbecue with French Fries and Salad) HK$/MOP170. Again, lots of Portuguese red and white wine and champagne to accompany the dishes. Chef Antonio even showed us how to open a champagne bottle with a sword.



Finally, for our Day 4 lunch, we tried out the Sunday buffet at Clube Militar de Macau 澳門陸軍俱樂部. Of course, the highlight of their regular Sunday buffet is the Cozido à Portuguesa which is a stew made of assorted meat including pork, chicken, and beef boiled with assorted vegetables and Portuguese sausages which include chouriço (pork sausage), morcela (blood sausage) and farinheira (flour sausage), which you eat with rice and boiled potatoes.

The buffet, which includes Bufete de Salada (salad buffet), Sopa de Cozido (meat broth soup) and the Cozido à Portuguesa, plus Bufete de Sobremesas (dessert buffet) costs HK$/MOP128 per head, not bad for a really heavy meal.

Portuguese Restaurants in Macau
Here is a list of recommended Portuguese restaurants in Macau. Make sure you request your hotel concierge to reserve your table. And do arrive at the restaurant on time because Macau restaurants are usually very full and busy.

Also ask the concierge to write the Chinese name of the restaurant for the taxi driver. Some restaurants are in Taipa and Coloane, so the taxis will be more expensive. Buses are also available.

Macau red and white wines are excellent and reasonably priced, so order some to go with your meal. All the restaurants have Filipinos with their staff which we experienced first hand. Feel free to ask them for suggestions on their specialties and on moderately-priced good wines.

A Lorcha
Rua Almitante Sergio No. 289, Macau
Tel. +853 28313193

Note: Also serves Macanese cuisine. Try out their Grilled Prawns with Garlic, Stewed Oxtail, Clams (Lorcha Style), Steamed Crab, Feiojada (Pork and Bean Stew), Spicy Charcoal Grilled Chicken, and Mixed Seafood Rice (Portuguese Style)

Antonio Restaurante
Rua dos Negociantes No.3, Taipa, Macau,
Tel. +853 28999998

Camoes Restaurant
Shop 101, Lisbon-Evora, Macau Fisherman’s Wharf
Tel. +853 28728818

Clube Militar de Macau
Av. da Praia Grande, 975
Tel. +853 28714000

Restaurante Escada
Rua de Se Nº 8, Macau (Leal Senado Square)
Tel. +853 28966900 / 28389229

Note: Also serves Macanese cuisine. Try out their Portuguese Homemade Soup, Cod Fish Cake, Hot Spicy Sardine, Clam with Lemon, Curry King Prawn, Codfish with Cream, Bitioque (Portuguese steak with white wine and garlic sauce) and Portuguese desserts

Espaco Lisboa
Rua das Gaivotas, Coloane
Tel. +853 28882226

Note: Try out their Pata Negra (Portuguese Superior Ham), Special Portuguese Sausage “An Flambe,” Traditional Portuguese Duck Rice, Prawns with Garlic Sauce, Salad de Bacalhau com Grao (Codfish salad with Beans), Cochinillo, and Baked Bacalhau (with cream, potatoes and bread crumbs)

Fernando’s
09 Praia De Hac Sa, Coloane
Tel. +853 28882531

Note: Try out their Cochinillo, all seafood items on the menu and Fresh Salad

Miramar
Zona Norte da Praia de Hác Sá
(near Westin Resort)
Tel. +853 28882623 / 28882601

O Manel
Rua Fernao Mendes Pinto, No. 90, Taipa
Tel. +853 28827571

Note: O Manel is small but the food is super delicious. You may have to wait in line, even if you have a reservation. Try out their Clams with Lemon & Garlic Sauce, Torresmos (Crisp Fried Pork Strips), Grilled Spareribs, Grilled Sardines, Grilled Bacalhau, Grilled Bass, Favas (Pork and Bean Casserole), Fresh Vegetable Salad, Octopus Rice, Grilled Chorizos and Baked Apple for dessert

O Santos Restaurant
No. 20, Rua de Cunha, Taipa Island

Ristorante Platao
Travessa de S. Domingos No. 3, r/c B, Edf. Jardim Lok Va,
(the side street where McDonalds is in Leal Senado)
Tel. +853 28331818

Vela Latina Restaurant
201 Avenida Almeida Ribeiro
Tel. +853 28356888

Macau: Historic Centre of Macao 澳門歷史城區, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Historic Centre of Macao 澳門歷史城區 was inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2005. Later that year, I made my first trip to Macau. And I literally walked the whole Macau Peninsula visiting all the 25 sites included in the UNESCO inscription.

I was glad to be back again last week for a different kind of walking tour around old Macau since this time, we visited the alleys and side streets most tourists take for granted.

We started our walk at the old Ponte No. 16 Building which was where Sofitel Macau At Ponte 16 is. From there, we made our way to Senado Square along San Ma Lo or Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, then through the alleys and small side streets where we saw a good number of interesting old structures.



Senado Square is the center of old Macau. Around it are the Leal Senado Building, Santa Casa da Misericórdia, the Macau Post Office Building and other grand old structures. What I like about the area is the fact that the signages are simple and not intrusive, unlike those in the Philippines which tend to grab too much attention.


From Senado Square, we walked towards the Ruins of St. Paul, passing by St. Dominic's Church. From the Ruins of St. Paul, we took escalators up to the Museu de Macau which documents and presents the history of Macau and its people.

According to UNESCO, Macau was inscribed in the World Heritage List because it "bears a unique testimony to the first and longest-lasting encounter between the West and China. From the 16th to the 20th centuries, it was the focal point for traders and missionaries, and the different fields of learning. The impact of this encounter can be traced in the fusion of different cultures that characterise the historic core zone of Macao."

Macau also "represents an outstanding example of an architectural ensemble that illustrates the development of the encounter between the Western and Chinese civilisations over some four and half centuries, represented in the historical route, with a series of urban spaces and architectural ensembles, that links the ancient Chinese port with the Portuguese city."


The 25 sites include churches: St. Lawrence's Church, St. Joseph's Seminary and Church, St. Augustine's Church, Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady, St. Dominic's Church 玫瑰堂, Ruins of St. Paul 大三巴牌坊 and St. Anthony's Church; temples: A-Ma Temple 媽閣廟, Sam Kai Vui Kun or Kuan Tai Temple, and Na Tcha Temple 大三巴哪吒廟; government and institutional buildings: Leal Senado Building, Moorish Barracks, Dom Pedro V Theatre 伯多祿五世劇院, Sir Robert Ho Tung Library, and Holy House of Mercy or Santa Casa da Misericórdia 仁慈堂大樓; plazas and open spaces: Lilau Square, St. Augustine's Square and Senado Square 議事亭前地; residences: Mandarin's House, Lou Kau Mansion and Casa Garden; fortifications: Section of the Old City Walls, Mount Fortress or Fortaleza do Monte 大炮台, and Guia Fortress 東望洋炮台 which includes Guia Chapel and Guia Lighthouse; and cemeteries: Old Protestant Cemetery 基督教墳場 and the old headquarters of the British East Indies Company.

Macau: Noodles, congee and more Chinese hawker food at Wa Hin Mei Sec (Small Turtle) 華軒美食(細龜)

What a way to start a tour of Macau! We had arrived on an evening flight and the first order of the day was a Chinese dinner. Our hosts from the Macau Government Tourism Office took us to this hole-in-the-wall hawker stall called Small Turtle 華軒美食(細龜) or Estabelecimento de Comidas Wa Hin Mei Sec, a Cantonese restaurant which is very popular for its fried beef rice noodles 干炒牛河, fried wanton 炸雲吞, and fried dace fish balls 炸鯪魚球.


When we arrived, we saw the guy they call Small Turtle firing up the noodles in a cart by the street. It turns out, the noodles are cooked here while the other dishes are prepared inside the restaurant across the street. While most of his customers go for take away, you can opt to stay in the restaurant and eat your noodles there.



We were served various preparations of noodles. Their specialty is of course the fried beef rice noodles which reminded me so much of char kway teow. We also had octopus with white noodles and pork with glass noodles. When we thought we were done, they sent in even more food. The fried shrimp dumplings were really good while the deep fried minced fish balls were oozing hot when they served it to us.


Then came in two large bowls of Fisherman's Congee which we obviously could not finish. I wish it had come first because I liked it. But after all those really tasty dishes, it did not leave a lasting impression on my taste buds. The last dish they brought out was deep fried little fish. My friends know that I'm not a seafood person so I didn't try that out anymore. Besides, I was already stuffed with all that delicious Chinese food!


Expect to spend about HK$/MOP25 to 50 per head. The fried beef rice noodles is HK$/MOP25 per order. That heavy and sumptuous meal was a great start for our Macau adventure, isn't it Ferdz, Nina, Estan, Kaoko and Christine?

Estabelecimento de Comidas Wa Hin Mei Sec 華軒美食(細龜)
Shop 2C, G/F Edf. Lok Sze, Travessa da Saudade, San Kiu, Macau
三盞燈 (新橋)沙梨頭仁慕巷樂斯大廈地下2號C舖
Tel No. 2895 3106
Open from 6:30 p.m. to 4:30 a.m.

China: Last day in Beijing

Yesterday was my last day in Beijing. In the morning, we had our closing ceremonies at the China National Institute of Cultural Property. I was asked to give a speech in behalf of all Asian countries present and blurted out a few Chinese lines I practiced the night before. They gave us our certificates and really nice tokens. A lunch banquet followed and it would not be complete without the traditional Chinese toast "Gan bei!" which means "Bottoms up!"

In the afternoon, I met up with my SSEAYP batchmates Pam and Edwin who were in Beijing for the 2nd China-ASEAN Youth Camp (I was a delegate during the 1st CAYC last year). What a coincidence that my schedule coincided with this year's camp.

We met at the Beijing Olypics Countdown Clock in Tian'anmen Square and proceeded to Houhai/Shichahai from there. Houhai is famous for its nightlife and chic bars and restaurants by the lake. I joined them back to their hotel because I wanted to meet Wu Wei of the All-China Youth Federation.

He invited me for drinks so we went back to Houhai. We took a cab since Wu Wei said he could not drink with me if he brought his car. Now that is being responsible!

Even on weekdays, the place is teeming with people. Nightlife is indeed alive in Houhai! And there were so many choices. We finally went to Lotus Blue Bar & Restaurant, downed half a case of Carlsberg there and played a dice game popular in bars to determine who drinks. It was all fun for my last night in Beijing! Photos are in Multiply.

So where's the apology?
While I was in China, an article by Malu Fernandez was e-mailed to me. When I got back, I realized the issue had been raging in the Internet for days. As a travel writer, I am unimpressed with her article. It does not give readers a sense of place of where she's been. Who cares if you used gold, open-toed sandals to climb the Acropolis? It's pathetic that the Hellenic attractions were only mentioned in passing. As a Filipino, I am appalled. How dare you call this country God-forsaken! You've even insulted your own countrymen.

If you want to read reactions to Malu's articles, simply type "Malu Fernandez" in Google. Trust me, they can get really nasty and I'm sure they'd give any reader a good laugh. I hope she learned her lesson. But everyone is waiting for her apology. And until she gives it, I don't think we will hear the last of this Malu Fernandez fiasco. I join the blogging community in expressing my indignation.

Technorati Tags: beijing, china, heritage, architecture, travel, travel+blog

China: Cruise along the Lijiang River in Guilin

A trip to Guilin would not be complete without a cruise along the Lijiang River. We had a fantastic cruise along the Lijiang River today! The picturesque karst landscape was simply spectacular despite it being a cloudy day.

Our group left downtown Guilin at about 8:15 a.m. and was at the wharf 45 minutes later. I was surprised to see so many cruise ferries waiting. There were just so many tourists, both local and foreign! Cruise ferries in fact left almost every 5 to 10 minutes. The trip down the river would take about five hours. Buffet lunch is prepared and served on board.

It was drizzling when we left the wharf. But that did not hamper us from proceeding to the roof deck of the ferry to enjoy the great scenery. Indeed, this is a highly-recommended tour which one must include in a China itinerary. In fact, the Lijiang River Scenic Zone is in the China tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage inscription. I'm sure the scenes from the Lijiang River below which I uploaded in YouTube will definitely whet your travel appetite.

Despite the fact that I wanted to sit down and relax in the air-conditioned area below, I just could not leave the roof deck since every curve and turn along the river offered new surprises and better views. Observing the daily life along the river was a very enriching experience. And it was amusing seeing how vendors sold their wares on a higher level because they would try to catch the ferries, rowing their rafts towards us and hooking them to the cruise boats as soon as they made contact so that they could sell their wares to the passengers.

At the end of the cruise is Yangshuo County which has an old town that is well-preserved but has been transformed into a tourist trap. Souvenir shops and inns now occupy this old settlement along the Li River. There were so many people, I found it difficult to move around. But at least all the old buildings were preserved and have become economically viable. I have a lot of photos in Multiply.

Technorati Tags: guilin, china, lijiang, river, cruise, heritage, architecture, travel, travel blog

China: Guilin, forest of Sweet Osmanthus

The karst limestone landscape of Southern China are a recurring theme in many old Chinese paintings. And it was thus a pleasant surprise for me that the group was visiting Guilin, a city set amidst picturesque karst mountains, which is very famous in China for its fantastic natural and man-made scenery. Many Chinese say that Guilin's scenery is the "finest under heaven." The name of the city literally means "forest of Sweet Osmanthus" because of the large number of fragrant Sweet Osmanthus trees in the city. It’s a three hour flight from Beijing. There are also flights from other major cities such as Guangzhou and Shanghai.

As soon as we left the airport, the karst mountains greeted us. What is great about Guilin is despite the growth and urban development, they have managed to preserve most of the karst mountains as well as the old water system which linked the city together. It’s sad when I think about Baguio City since informal settlers have already occupied the once picturesque views; and there seems to nothing left of the natural environment. Same goes for the Pasig River and the esteros of Binondo and Sta. Cruz which I hope the City of Manila cleans and revives.

We arrived in time for lunch at the Shan Hu Hotel. The hotel is in downtown Guilin and it gave us a great view of the square in front of it. After lunch, we were given ample time to rest. But I decided to explore the vicinity. I visited Fir Lake beside the hotel which has two charming pagodas along the banks. After walking around, I rushed back to the hotel to catch our bus.

For the afternoon, we visited the Guihai Forest of Steles Museum. It’s a collection of over 200 steels carved around the karst mountains and its different caves. You could see that they come from different periods dating back to the Sui Dynasty since there are steles with the old Chinese calligraphy that is no longer in use.

In the evening, I went around the vicinity again. It was an incredible sight as the city's waterway areas were fantastically lit!

Today, we visited the Jing Jiang Palace, the seat of government of Guilin during imperial times. The Jing Jiang princes were generations of Ming princes dispatched by the emperor to govern Guilin.

At the back of the palace was an example of an Examination Hall where examinees sweated it out for three days and three nights answering the difficult examinations which were administered during imperial times.

In the afternoon, we went to the Jing Jiang Mausoleum, the burial grounds of the Ming princes. They are located five kilometers from the city center, at the foot of the grand Yao Mountain. Only one of the eleven tombs has been restored, namely the tomb of Zhuangjian. The setting of the tomb was panoramic as it was built amidst lush pine trees and surrounded by hills and mountains.

Ten figures can be found of each of the two side of the ceremonial way to the inner palace, which include animals such as elephants, unicorns, and pixiu. We had a forum with the local heritage managers in one of the halls of the tomb complex. Then it was back to downtown for dinner. Tomorrow we take a cruise along the Lijiang River!

Technorati Tags: guilin, china, heritage, architecture, travel, travel+blog

China: One year countdown to the Beijing Olympics begins

On 8:08 p.m. of 08/08/08 (August 8, 2008), the 2008 Beijing Olympics will begin. It’s one big party in Beijing today as China and the world counts 365 days to the opening of the Games of the XXIXth Olympiad. I was planning to join the party in Tian’anmen Square but ended up watching the ceremonies on TV instead.

I was in the center of Beijing today for a change in routine. It took me quite a while to get there from my hotel which is along the North 4th Ring East Road near the construction area of the National Olympic Center (I should check that out one of these days). The hotel is about a kilometer from the nearest subway station.

First stop was the Philippine Embassy to meet up with my brod who is consul general in Beijing. We had lunch at Friday’s (after having Chinese food three times a day everyday for the past week, one craves for a change).

After lunch, I took a subway to Tian’anmen Square. I had wanted to check out the countdown clock again but the whole square was cordoned off in preparation for the program in the evening. Oh well! There goes my revisit to Chairman Mao’s mausoleum.

Crowds were already waiting along the sides of Tian’anmen. There were even people passing the time in the pedestrian underpasses since it was so humid outside. I walked towards Qianmen and from there, took the subway to Liulichang Cultural Street.

Known for its cultural stores housed in restored old shop houses, Liulichang is a must-visit if you like the feel of old streets or like collecting antiques or art. You can find a lot of antique stores, calligraphy and art galleries, bookstores, tea houses and small shops selling miscellaneous cultural stuff (but no commercial souvenirs like those in Sichahai). Just like always, bargain hard. I got myself some really nice ceramic figurines for one-third the original price (I feel I could have gotten them even lower).

Exhausted by the humidity, I decided to make my way back to the hotel. Beijing is just so big, I’m getting so much exercise from the long walks. One more day of lectures before we fly to Guilin for the weekend. I heard it’s really nice.

Technorati Tags: beijing, china, heritage, acrhitecture, tiananmen square, olympics, travel, travel blog

China: Around old Beijing

I wasn’t that excited today maybe because I was at the Forbidden City just last October. It was also a Sunday, and I was expecting a large crowd and I hate going around heritage sites when they are crowded.

My expectations were not unfounded. There were just too many people and you had to jostle your way to see the different areas of the Forbidden City. Add to the fact that many of the major buildings were undergoing restoration and still covered by scaffolding. I was hoping restoration works on the main palace was finished by now since it was also covered last year. But it was not yet completed. So I just made good use of my time and strolled around the palace complex.

Like yesterday, we had lunch in the bus. They took us to the Yashow Clothing Market in the afternoon but that did not interest me (as a general rule, if it’s something I can buy easily in the Philippines, I won’t buy it). So I asked permission from the organizers to separate from the group. Boris from Serbia joined me to Beihai (North Lake) Park which I had wanted to see during my trip last year. We took a taxi from the market to Beihai which was RMB20 (PHP140). Had I known it was a clothing market, I would have stayed behind at the Forbidden City since many of the historical sites are nearby. Entrance to the park is RMB20.

Beihai Park was part of the imperial gardens. If not for the large weekend crowd, the stroll around would have been very refreshing with its large picturesque lake full of lotus plants in full-bloom and hundreds of trees. As they say, the garden has the dignity of the northern style and the exquisiteness of the southern style. Maybe I could come back on a weekday to absorb the scenery.

In the middle of the lake is Qiong Island linked by two old bridges. The island has a hill with several temples and shrines, and an imposing white Tibetan-style dagoba on top. From the top, you could see the entire Forbidden City and other old structures in the vicinity. Sadly, the weather did not cooperate with us. Since it was foggy, visibility was low.

We walked several hundred meters towards the north gate of the park to get to Sichahai for a rickshaw tour of the hutongs. I was there last year but it was in the evening. So I was not able to appreciate the hutong tour that much. Hutongs are the alleyways which typified old Beijing.

Outside the palace, princes, civil servants, wealthy merchants and other common folk lived in these hutongs. There are just a few of them left as many of them were bulldozed to give way to new developments. But the Beijing government put a stop to the demolition and preserved a large part of the hutongs close to the Forbidden City as a reminder of life before. Sooner or later, cities realize that preserving heritage is vital for their growth and development. And I hope local officials in the Philippines realize it sooner while there is still something left to preserve.

One of the places we visited was the 300-year old Beijing courtyard style home of the Qi family (5 QianGan Hutong), which is one of a few well-preserved private courtyards open to the public (RMB20). One could see the development of the city’s hutongs by visiting these all-gray homes which are still in use. It amazes me how local and foreign tourists visited these alleyways in droves. And residents charge for entrance into their traditional homes. Imagine this happening in old Manila districts such as (Hidalgo Street) Quiapo, San Nicolas and San Miguel.

While in Sichahai, don’t forget to check out Yandai Byway to shop for souvenirs such as Mao memorabilia, silk and traditional clothing, tea (although prices are outrageous), Chinese cultural items, as well as the usual tourist stuff like magnets, key chains, trinkets, etc.

I didn’t buy anything since I wanted to reserve all my shopping towards the end of the seminar. But make sure you bargain hard since they overprice the items beyond comprehension. Don’t think an amount is too low because if you turn away, they might just say yes. I asked the price of a Buddha image and they said RMB260. I didn’t budge. Their asking price went lower but not that much. I said RMB50 and they laughed. When I left, they ran after me and said “Ok, ok, RMB50!” But I said I’m no longer interested and I’ll think about it. Who knows, I could have gone lower.

From Sichahai, we walked towards the Drum and Bell Towers. I had seen these towers last year but in the evening. So I wanted to see them up close while the sun was still out. From there, we walked towards the subway station and took a train back to our hotel in the northeastern area of Beijing, just in time for dinner.

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Three years after Unesco's World Heritage Center released a scathing report on the country's poor management of its cultural sites, boom-time China is starting to realize that preserving archaeological finds can be more lucrative than developing shopping malls.

Technorati Tags: beijing, china, forbidden city, hutongs, unesco, heritage, architecture, travel, travel blog