Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Metro Manila: Las Pinas Bamboo Organ and visita iglesia in Paranaque and Las Pinas


The southern cities of Metro Manila have some interesting heritage churches, particularly Paranaque and Las Pinas which you can visit for visita iglesia.


Who does not know the Bamboo Organ? The Las Pinas Church is home to this National Cultural Treasure. It was in 1810 that Fr. Diego Cera began contruction for the Las Pinas Church which was completed in 1819. The architecture of the church itself is very simply yet sturdy with its massive stone colonades ans stucco Neoclassical altar.


The highlight of any visit to the Las Pinas Church is the Bamboo Organ which Fr. Cera built in 1823. It has a total of 1,031 original bamboo pipes and 129 new metal ones. It fell into disrepair but was restored in 1942 by Carmelo and Jose Loinaz. In 1973, the organ was sent to the Johannes Klais Factory in Bonn, Germany for a full restoration.



In Paranaque, one of the best preserved churches is the San Dionisio Chapel. This small chapel is worth the visit because of its intact wooden altar. But what makes the altar even more famous or infamous is the headless image of San Dionisio or Tatang Dune to the locals.


Paranaque in fact has several other heritage churches including the Paranaque Cathedral, La Huerta Chapel and Redemptorist Church, which you can visit when on visita iglesia.

The Paranaque Cathedral's veneration for the Nuestra Senora del Buen Suceso dates back to 1625. The current church was built from 1638 to 1650.

Bohol: Tsokolate Eh Souffle Cake at Cafe Lawis in Dauis Church


If you happen to pass by the Dauis Church in Bohol, make sure to walk all the way to the convento. Inside and behind it is the charming Cafe Lawis, nestled by the beach under large acacia trees. You'd be surprised that a cafe like that exists in an old church. But being a component of the Dauis Renaissance Program of the Ayala Foundation, standards have definitely been raised.


They actually have a nice selection of meals and snacks. But the pièce de résistance here is the Tsokolate Eh Souffle Cake (Php95) which is served with a rich tsokolate eh syrup and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. It takes quite a while to prepare though. So make sure you order it first before exploring the church so that it's ready when you get back.

Monday, April 18, 2011

International Day for Monuments and Sites 2011 celebrates the cultural heritage of water


April 18 is the International Day for Monuments and Sites or World Heritage Day. For 2011, the theme is: The Cultural Heritage of Water.

According to ICOMOS, "Water is one of the key resources required to sustain life. It has led to the development and generation of significant material culture in the form of items, technology and places. How to obtain it, how to store it, how to harness its power and conserve it has motivated human endeavour in a myriad of ways. It has also been the catalyst for the development of significant cultural practices which have generated intangible cultural heritage values. It has inspired poetry, literature, artistic endeavour such as painting, dance and sculpture. It has informed and inspired the development of philosophies and religious practice. The cultural heritage of water, therefore relates not only to the technology and architecture that humankind has developed to manage, utilise and celebrate its life giving properties but also to those intangible values that have shaped our beliefs and practices."

Being an archipelago, the Philippines has a vast inventory of cultural heritage sites and practices related to water. Here are just a few examples of how water has shaped the culture of the Philippines.


On top of the list are the Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Ifugao have harnessed water from rain and the mountains for thousands of years to create this unique system of farming rice. UNESCO notes "the development of intricate irrigation systems, harvesting water from the forests of the mountain tops, and an elaborate farming system, reflect a mastery of engineering that is appreciated to the present."

Above the terraces are muyong or private forests. More than providing food, wood and medicinal plants to the clans that own them, the muyongs are said to be the source of irrigation water, reduce surface water runoff from rains, prevent soil erosion and thus limit the accumulation dirt in the rice paddies below.


Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Historic Town of Vigan was a very important trading post long before the arrival of the Spanish colonizers. According to UNESCO, "there was a small indigenous settlement on what was at that time an island, consisting of wooden or bamboo houses on stilts." Few people know that Vigan was then an island separated from the mainland by three rivers: Abra River, Mestizo River, and Govantes River. Chinese traders brought goods to the Isla de Vigan from other Asian nations to exchange with local goods.

Later in the Spanish colonial period, trade flourished through the rivers. As the UNESCO inscription states, "The Mestizo River was central to the development of the town in the 16th-19th centuries: large sea-going vessels could berth in the delta and small craft communicated with the interior. It is no longer navigable owing to silting, and so the town is no longer an island. As the major commercial centre for the region, Vigan traded directly with China. As a stage in the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade in the Spanish colonial period, it supplied goods for shipping to Mexico, and thence onwards to Europe. This trade resulted in constant exchanges of peoples and cultures between the Ilocanos, Filipinos, Chinese, Spanish, and (in the 20th century) North Americans."

Although part of our natural heritage, the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River and Tubbataha Reef are also inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.



The Philippine Registry of Cultural Property includes several sites related to the cultural heritage of water. Among our National Cultural Treasures are the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse in Ilocos Norte, Malagonlong Bridge in Quezon, Fort Pilar in Zamboanga City, and the Balangays in the Vicinity of Butuan. The Stone Bridges of Bohol Province (Lila and Dimiao) and the Cape Engano Lighthouse in Sta. Ana, Cagayan are Important Cultural Properties.




Fort Santiago, Intramuros and its Walls, Corregidor Island and the Site of the Battle of Mactan are National Shrines. The Punta de Malabrigo Lighthouse in Batangas, Cape Melville Lighthouse in Palawan, Bagacay Point Lighthouse in Cebu, Punta Cruz Watchtower in Bohol, MacArthur Landing Site in Leyte, Fuerte de la Concepcion y del Triunfo Historical Landmark in Ozamiz City and several fortress churches are National Historical Landmarks.



In Batanes are prehistoric fortresses such as the Savidug Ijiang, boat-shaped graves in the Nakamaya Burial Grounds and the Kapayvanuvanua rituals of the Diura Fishing Village. At the Nakamaya site, a wooden sign board explains the significance of the place: "The stone boat-shaped burial grounds shaped in the traditional wooden boat of Batanes called tataya are testimonies to the values of the prehistoric Ivatans who believed in life after death. The general direction of the boat-shaped burial grounds face the sea which, according to an old Ivatan folktale, is the final resting place of man."

Diura is a tiny village of Mahatao facing the Pacific Ocean. The village is most known as a fishing area for mahi-mahi or dolphin fish which is called dorado in Batanes. To signify the start of the fishing season, the fishermen perform the Kapayvanuvanua ritual.



The daily lives of the Manobos of Agusan Marsh and the T'bolis of Lake Sebu revolve around the water environment they have have lived in for generations.

Water has also been a very important element of our local festivals. Every June 24, towns and cities around the country celebrate the feast of San Juan Bautista with water in the streets and a lot of merrymaking. Same is true for the Higantes Festival and feast of San Clemente in Angono where you're sure to get wet. A fluvial procession around Laguna de Bay follows the wet and rowdy procession around town.



Another water festival is the Apo Iro Fluvial Procession in Apalit, Pampanga from June 28 to 30. Other famous fluvial festivals include the Pagoda sa Wawa in Bocaue, Bulacan and the Penafrancia Festival in Naga, Camarines Sur.

What is the cultural heritage of water in your province? Share them by commenting below.

2010: Heritage of Agriculture
2009: Heritage and Science

Ivan Anthony Henares is a member of the ICOMOS Philippines National Committee and expert member of the International Cultural Tourism Committee (ICTC).

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Bohol: Visita iglesia to Bohol's heritage churches


Bohol is probably the province with the most intact heritage churches. And it's perfect for a visita iglesia. Here are some of the Bohol churches I got to visit during my recent trip to the province.


Baclayon Church is both a National Cultural Treasure and a National Historical Landmark. It was in Baclayon that the Jesuits established the first Catholic mission in Bohol in 1596. It became a parish in 1717. The current coral stone church was constructed in 1727.


Alburquerque Church has interesting altar murals. Unfortunately, I was not able to enter the church during this trip. We also missed visiting the Loay Church, a National Historical Landmark, due to the rains.



Loboc Church is a National Cultural Treasure. The mission of Loboc was established in 1597 and became a parish, dedicated to San Pedro Apostol, in 1602. The present church, built on the foundations of an earlier church, was built from 1670 to 1734.


Loon Church was recently declared a National Cultural Treasure and National Historical Landmark. The parish was established in 1753 under the patronage of the Nuestra Senora de la Luz. The current church was built from 1855 to 1864 after the previous church was damaged by a fire. The ceiling murals were done by Ray Francia in 1938.


Maribojoc Church is a National Cultural Treasure. It was established as a parish in 1767 and was placed under the patronage of the Santa Cruz. The current coral stone church dates back to 1852. Construction was completed in 1872. The ceiling murals were painted by Ray Francia in 1930.



Cortes Church is quite close to Tagbilaran but is often missed since it's not along the National Highway. But it's worth the visit if you have the time.



Tagbilaran Cathedral has a renovated facade, but the interior, particularly the retablos, are very much intact. It was one of the six parishes founded by the Jesuits in Bohol in 1595. The original church built by the Jesuits was burned in 1798. The current church was built by the Recollects from 1839 to 1855.



Dauis Church is another church close to Tagbilaran worth visiting. The Dauis Church Complex, which inludes the church, convent, watchtower and belfry, is a National Historical Landmark. It was separated from Baclayon and became an independent parish dedicated to the Nuestra Senora de Asuncion in 1697. The impressive murals inside the church are said to be works of both Ray Francia and Canuto Avila created from 1919 to 1923.


Off the beaten track are churches beyond the town of Loay. Lila Church has an interesting interior.



Dimiao Church is another intact church complex which I hope is declared soon. Beside it are the Ermita Ruins, a former church cemetery and chapel which was closed in 1844. The layout of the church is quite unique with the convento 'docked' behind it.


Valencia Church has an intact interior and a very interesting wooden floor.


The neighboring Garcia Hernandez Church has an intact retablo.


Jagna Church, although its facade is renovated, has an interesting interior with impressive ceiling murals and intact retablos.



Duero Church was a surprise. I didn't realize until I knocked on the walls that, except for the base and belfry, it was made almost entirely of wood. It also has an interesting interior and I hope this church also gets declared soon.

Too bad I was not able to make it to Anda or Talibon since I was told the churches there are interesting too. I'll reserve that for another trip. Here are more photos from the trip. For more visita iglesia itineraries, check out Visita iglesia to our heritage churches.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Bataan: Visita iglesia to Bataan's heritage churches


Holy Week is just around the corner. And if you happen to be in Bataan, here are some interesting colonial churches you can check out if you plan to do a visita iglesia in the province.


Orion Church probably has the best-preserved retablo in the province of Bataan. The marker outside the church mentions that Orion became independent from Abucay in 1667. The church was damaged during the 1852 earthquake and repaired in 1854. Cayetano Arellano, the first Filipino chief justice is from Orion. Francisco Balagtas, author of Florante at Laura, also lived in the town from 1842 to 1862.


Pilar Church is another interesting church, a well-preserved adobe structure with its belfry located on top of the main facade.


Balanga became an independent parish in 1739. The Balanga Cathedral is the seat of the Diocese of Balanga. Unfortunately, they layered the facade with new bricks thereby altering its character.


Abucay Church is a National Historical Landmark. According to the National Historical Commission, the spiritual ministration of Abucay was entrusted to the Dominicans in 1588. It is significant because a fierce battle between the Dutch invaders and the Kapampangan defenders was fought in the area surrounding the church on June 23, 1647. Nearly two hundred Kapampangans were put to death, and forty others, together with Spanish alcalde mayor and two Dominican priests, were taken prisoners to Batavia (Jakarta). The printing press of Tomas Pinpin operated in Abucay.


Samal Church seems to have the most-intact convento of all Bataan's churches. The parish was entrusted to the Dominicans in 1596. The church was destroyed during the Dutch Invasion and the Philippine Revolution. Dutch invaders attacked in April 1647. But the local garrison of Pampanga under the command of Alejo Aguas repelled the Dutch forces. The church and the convent were ruined during the invasion. In 1896, the church was burned by the Katipuneros to drive out their enemies in the convent. The church and convent was rebuilt in 1903.

For more visita iglesia itineraries, check out Visita iglesia to our heritage churches.
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