Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Scotland: Exploring the Isle of Skye

If you're still craving for more of the Scottish Highlands, then a visit to the islands is in order! Just a few kilometers from Eilean Donan is the Isle of Skye, the largest island of the Inner Hebrides, connected by a bridge to the Scottish mainland.

Skye is stunning! Too bad though we arrived too early in the year. Winter had barely said goodbye. So it was gloomy and at times rainy as we explored the island. But the scenery was still fantastic, although the sun and spring or summer blooms would have made the experience all the more pleasant.

The drive from the Kyle of Lochlash on mainland Scotland to the village of Kyleakin is about ten kilometers, crossing the Skye Bridge. There is a train service to Kyle of Lochalsh from Inverness. Then a bus will take you to the island. We stayed in Kyleakin for two nights. There are a good number of inns and hostels in the village.

In Kyleakin, we walked to Castle Moil (Caisteal Maol), a ruined 15th century castle and ancient seat of Clan Mackinnon. You can actually explore this picturesque fishing village in under an hour.

The next day, we drove around the island, stopping briefly at one of the barbed fences to catch a glimpse of Highland cattle, a Scottish breed of cattle with long horns and wavy coats.

We drove past Broadford, a village spread around a large bay, on the way to the Isle of Skye Brewing Co. where we sampled the local beer.

In Trotternish, the northernmost peninsula of the island, are restored blackhouses, traditional houses common in the Scottish Highlands. It also has stunning rock formations like the Old Man of Storr. We also visited Kilt Rock and Falls.

All the way, we enjoyed quaint view of small villages or isolated homes in the middle of nowhere. Even the iconic British red telephone box calls attention in the sparse landscape.

For lunch, we went to Portree, the largest town and capital of Skye. It has a small town square called Somerled Square. And there's Portree Harbour, another iconic image of Skye, with its colorful houses by the pier.

Driving around Skye, you won't miss the Cuillin, a mountain range that dominates the Skye landscape.

On our last day, we drove to Armadale to catch the ferry to Mallaig. This ferry crossing is another way to get to Skye. There is a train service from Glasgow to Mallaig with a convenient connection to the ferry service to Armadale.

Unfortunately, Dunvegan Castle, the ancestral home of the Clan MacLeod, had not yet opened for the year (it's closed during winter). So we missed visiting the castle, the oldest continuously inhabited castle in the whole of Scotland. Hopefully I get to visit Skye again at the height of spring or summer!

Part 1: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital
Part 2: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness
Part 3: Exploring the Isle of Skye
Part 4: Glencoe, Glenfinnan, spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands
Part 5: Glasgow's George Square at night

Also check out my photos of England, Scotland and Wales.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Scotland: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness

Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland
Eilean Donan Castle is an iconic landmark of Scotland. The castle is one of the most visited attractions in the Scottish Highlands.

Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland
Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland
It's actually an early 20th century reconstruction of an older castle, with fortifications that date back to the 13th century. The original castle was destroyed in 1719 during the Jacobite Uprising. A stronghold of the Clan Mackenzie and Clan Macrae, it lay in ruins for 200 years and was rebuilt between 1919 to 1932 as a war memorial to members of the Macrae clan who died during the First World War.

Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland
No doubt, it is one of the most photographed landmarks in Scotland. But much of our visit to Scotland was in cold gloomy weather. So we didn't get to see the picturesque castle as seen in postcards. The castle is open from February to December (£6.50 entrance free). And the best time to visit is during late spring or summer. Unless you have your own transport, it's best to join a tour from Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Inverness.

Fort Augustus, Scotland
On the way to Eilean Donan from Edinburgh, we stopped by Fort Augustus, at the southwestern end of Loch Ness. The town has a Loch Ness View Point and maybe you might just see the Loch Ness monster. Another attraction is the Caledonian Canal which joins various lochs from Fort William to Inverness. We literally had a few minutes to explore since we needed to be in the castle before 5 p.m. The distance from Edinburgh to Eilean Donan is a little over 300 kilometers which is a four-hour trip.

From Eilean Donan, we proceed to the Isle of Skye, about 15 kilometers away.

Part 1: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital
Part 2: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness
Part 3: Exploring the Isle of Skye
Part 4: Glencoe, Glenfinnan, spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands
Part 5: Glasgow's George Square at night

Also check out my photos of England, Scotland and Wales.

Scotland: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital

Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
A medieval fortress dominates the skyline of Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. Edinburgh Castle stands at the head of Old Town, one of two distinct historic districts of the city. The Old and New Towns of Edinburgh are inscribed in the World Heritage List.

Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
Old Town, with its medieval street plan and Reformation-era buildings, is the oldest part of the city. St. Margaret's Chapel, built in 1130 and the oldest building in the city, can be found in Edinburgh Castle. A visit to Edinburgh will not be complete without a trip to the castle (£16 entrance fee for adults).

Edinburgh Castle, Scotland
View of New Town from Edinburgh Castle
The castle, once a shelter to Scottish royalty, also has several museums, the Scottish National War Memorial, and the Scottish Crown Jewels. The crown, scepter and sword are the oldest in the British Isles. One gets a great view of Old Town and New Town from Edinburgh Castle.

Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland
Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland
From Edinburgh Castle, a road called the Royal Mile (approximately one Scots mile long) leads down to Holyrood Palace. It's actually a succession of streets that include Castlehill at the top, followed by Lawnmarket, the High Street, the Canongate and finally Abbey Strand. Many of Edinburgh's historic landmarks are located on these streets.

Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland
Canongate Tollbooth was built in 1591 as a tollbooth, courthouse, burgh jail and meeting place
Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland
If you are a fan of Harry Potter, make sure to turn right at George IV Bridge, which is between Lawnmarket and High Street, to visit The Elephant House. This café is the birthplace of Harry Potter since it's one of the café's where J.K. Rowling wrote her first Harry Potter novel.

Scottish National Parliament, Edinburgh, Scotland
In front of Holyrood Palace is the Scottish Parliament Building, designed by Catalan architect Enric Miralles, who passed away before it was completed in 2004.

Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, Scotland
Holyrood Palace is the official residence of Queen Elizabeth II in Scotland, and has been the main residence of the Kings and Queens of Scots since the 16th century.

The ruins of Holyrood Abbey are adjacent to the palace.

Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland
Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh, Scotland
The former royal hunting estate is now Holyrood Park, a 260-hectare royal park with many hills, lochs, glens, ridges and basalt cliffs. Arthur's Seat, a 251-meter hill, provides fantastic views of Edinburgh.

Edinburgh, Scotland
View of Old Town from Princes Street in New Town
New Town was built between 1765 and 1850, a showcase of neoclassical and Georgian period architecture. Princes Street is the main shopping street in Edinburgh where you'll find some of the most popular names in fashion. Buildings are located on the north side of the street. The south side is mostly trees and open space, which allows beautiful panoramic views of Old Town and Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh is a perfect introduction to Scotland. I had my first taste of haggis, Scotland's national dish, in Edinburgh. Haggis is a savory pudding made from sheep's heart, lungs, and liver minced with onion, oatmeal, suet and spices.

We also had our introduction to bagpipes and traditional Scottish music in Edinburgh. Check out the videos I took.


Part 1: Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Harry Potter and more from the Scottish capital
Part 2: Eilean Donan Castle and Loch Ness
Part 3: Exploring the Isle of Skye
Part 4: Glencoe, Glenfinnan, spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands
Part 5: Glasgow's George Square at night

Also check out my photos of England, Scotland and Wales.

Thursday, May 08, 2014

Sorsogon: Bulusan Lake & Volcano, Barcelona Church & heritage houses in Juban

Sorsogon Provincial Capitol
If you're looking for something else to do in Sorsogon after whale watching in Donsol, drive down south! The province has a few interesting sites south of Donsol, particularly in the towns of Barcelona, Bulusan, Juban and Matnog.

The capital of the province is also named Sorsogon. Sorsogon City is actually two towns that were merged when the city was created: Sorsogon and Bacon. Drop by the Sorsogon Provincial Capitol which has a really elegant park with centuries-old trees still standing. Taste seems to be a missing element among many local governments. But Sorsogon proves that it still exists.

Barcelona Church, Sorsorgon
A few kilometers from Sorsogon City is the town of Barcelona. The Barcelona Church is the best preserved Spanish colonial church in the province. But the altar has been altered. In front of the church are ruins of the Old Barcelona Presidencia. We noticed construction going on beside the ruins of large letters which spell "Barcelona, Sorsogon." By now, it should be finished and I'm sure this will be a popular photo spot for visitors.

Bulusan Lake, Sorsogon
Further down is the Bulusan Volcano Natural Park where Lake Bulusan is located. The lake, on the southern slope of Bulusan Volcano, is quite small at 28 hectares. There are facilities for rowing and kayaking. You can also walk around the shore which is a little over two kilometers, or hike up to Bulusan Volcano.

The town of Bulusan used to have a fortress church. The church is no longer there. But the walls and belfry, which must have doubled as a watchtower against Moro pirates, are still standing.

Bulusan Volcano, Sorsogon
Bulusan Volcano towers over the towns in the southern end of Sorsogon. We got a really nice view of the volcano from Irosin Church.

Grajo Heritage House, Juban, Sorsogon
On the way back to Sorsogon City, we passed by Juban which has five elegant heritage houses namely Alindogan, Alindogan-Gorospe, Grajo, Lasala, and Olondriz.

Anyway, you can visit all of these sites in a day. At the southern end of Sorosogon is Matnog, the jump-off point for Samar. The town has the best beaches in the province, particularly Subic Beach on Calintaan Island. That's my next target.

Here's something for you. Saw this quite a lot around Sorsogon. How many people are in this tricycle?

Tuesday, May 06, 2014

Albay: Pinangat in Camalig and pinangat pizza & pasta in Legazpi

Mayon Volcano, Albay
I had a pinangat overload in Albay last week! Who doesn't love pinangat or laing? Pinangat is a Bicolano dish made from taro (gabi) leaves, chili (siling labuyo), meat or dried fish and coconut milk. Camalig is very popular for pinangat especially since there are so many stores along the National Highway selling freshly-cooked or frozen pinangat to take home.

Pinangat from Camalig, Albay
We stopped by Dad's Pinangat where a serving costs Php40 each. There are two types, one with chili and one without. I tried the freshly-cooked pinangat which was really good. I noticed though when I tried the frozen one at home that it wasn't as flavorful. This pinangat version has dried fish, maybe daing.

Camalig Church, Albay
While in Camalig, make sure to visit the centuries-old Camalig Church.

Laing Pizza at Small Talk Cafe, Legazpi City, Albay
Back in Legazpi, I made sure to visit Small Talk Cafe to try out their laing pizza. Order the Bicolana, which is pizza topped with pinangat, pineapple chunks, mushrooms and mozarella. The crust was thin and crunchy, and the combination worked well. The flavor of the laing was quite subtle. At Php225, it's a steal!

Laing Pasta at Small Talk Cafe, Legazpi City, Albay
Bicol Express Pasta at Small Talk Cafe, Legazpi City, Albay
They also have Pasta Mayon (pinangat ravioli in red tuna sauce), Pasta Pinangat (pinangat and coconut milk in white sauce with pasta), and Bicol Express Pasta (alamang, sili and gata sautéed in garlic and pasta) which I all got to try since the prices were quite affordable (Php105 to Php110 per serving). They also have Pili Basil Pasta (Php120).

Daraga Church, Albay
I had written something on the Mayon Volcano, Cagsawa Ruins and Daraga Church previously. My favorite views of the Mayon Volcano are from Lignon Hill, Cagsawa Ruins (which is the iconic view of the volcano) and Daraga Church (especially if you take a photo of the church with the volcano behind it). But waking up to a beautiful morning with a clear view of Mayon Volcano was another great experience. The photo at the top was taken from my room balcony at the Oriental Hotel Legazpi.
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