Pampanga: Good Friday Santo Entierro procession in Bacolor, Pampanga

Indeed, the phoenix has risen from the ashes. I decided to watch the Good Friday Santo Entierro procession in Bacolor, Pampanga by chance since there was no Good Friday procession in Guagua this year due to ongoing road construction around the center of town. It was very encouraging that the Bacolor procession is back to its old grandeur.

Over a decade ago, Bacolor was buried by lahar from Mount Pinatubo. It was a great loss for Pampanga being the province's former capital and heritage town. But one thing I like about Bacolor is the resiliency of its culture. One of the first things they raised from the buried town, even before rebuilding schools and other structures, were their monuments. The three ornate retablos in the half-buried Bacolor Church were also dug up and restored to their original glory.


It was 8 p.m. when I arrived at the Bacolor Church (Update: It now starts at 5 p.m.). The Good Friday Santo Entierro procession had not started yet since people were still lining up to venerate the crucified Christ. The halls of the church reverberated with the solemn Stabat Mater performed by local musicians and singers of a town which was once the center of arts and culture in the province. It was a very touching scene.


The procession begun with 152 pasos in black cassocks and white mozzettas, their faces covered by black veils and with wreaths on their heads, carrying symbols of Christs death and messages from Jesus' passion and death in various languages that included Kapampangan, English, Latin, Spanish and even French.


This was followed by one of the grandest Santo Entierro carrozas in the entire country. I found out that the carroza actually belonged to our family, the Joven-de Leon clan of Bacolor, and I was invited by my cousin Tom Joven (who is very much responsible for restoring the grandeur of Bacolor's church, Good Friday procession, and many more town traditions) to join the carroza for the procession.




The saints of the passion story beginning with San Pedro, and scenes from Christ's passion came in next. Although Tom told me that previously, the tableaux only came out during the Holy Wednesday procession since the Good Friday procession is a funeral participated in only by the carrozas of the individual saints. In fact, some of the tableaux carrozas, like those of the Valdes clan, only come out for Holy Wednesday.




No doubt, the Bacolor Good Friday Santo Entierro procession is one of the best examples of a traditional Filipino Holy Week procession. It's quiet and solemn. And there's no pipe-in music and prayers blasted through sound systems in the carrozas, just the voices of small groups sincerely praying the rosary along the way. The carrozas are elaborate, grand and elegant. There were no pick up trucks, owner jeeps or cars in the procession. If you want to witness a traditional Good Friday procession, I highly-recommend that you visit Bacolor, Pampanga.



At the end of the procession is the Mater Dolorosa. She is preceded by the angelic voices of a local choir and musicians who play various versions of the Stabat Mater. A solemn drum beat reminds us that this is actually a funeral dirge.



As the Mater Dolorosa returns to the church, her carroza is brought face to face with the carroza of the Santo Entierro in front of the gates of the church, a symbolic positioning signifying the Sorrowful Mother mourning over her Son.

Other processions worth visiting in Pampanga are the ones in Santa Rita, Guagua and Sasmuan. I haven't seen the one in Santa Rita and plan to witness that next year. In Guagua, I remember they had violinists who accompany the Sto. Entierro and Mater Dolorosa. The violins are something that disappeared in San Fernando after the change of priests.

As I previously mentioned, it's sad that these priests forget that they stay only in a parish for a few years. And yet some go on the rampage and destroy architecture and traditions that have been there even before they were born. Even the traditional order of carrozas of the Good Friday procession in San Fernando had been changed in deference to the whims of the new rector. I hope things go back to normal soon!

Pampanga: San Pedro Cutud passion play and crucifixions in San Fernando

The Via Crucis passion play and crucifixions are staged annually in San Pedro Cutud, City of San Fernando, Pampanga. Despite its popularity among tourists both local and foreign alike, the local government has been making an effort to preserve as much as the tradition as possible, and keep out to much commercialism from the passion play which is written in the vernacular Kapampangan language. At least 30 percent of the crowd at San Pedro Cutud were foreigners. And it could arguably be the event most visited by foreigners owing to the international media attention it gets every year.

I decided to stay away from San Pedro Cutud this year to conserve my energy to visit other Good Friday traditions. I was actually there earlier in the morning as the crowds started to stream in. But left to get back home before I got stuck there. There are two other crucifixion sites in San Fernando in Santa Lucia and San Juan.

You can read my previous entries for more details on San Pedro Cutud and its Via Crucis passion play: Good Friday in San Fernando, Pampanga (2007), Crucifixion rites held in San Pedro Cutud every Good Friday (2008) and Another Good Friday in San Fernando, Pampanga (2009).

Pampanga: Pasyon Serenata in San Basilio, Santa Rita, Pampanga

Pasyon Serenata is a variant of the pabasa, with two sets of accompanying singers and marching bands playing alternately in what is called a sagutan. The Pasyon Serenata is held in the evenings (usually 8 p.m. to 12 midnight) of Holy Thursday and Good Friday in two locations in Barangay San Basilio, Sta. Rita, Pampanga. One Pasyon Serenata is staged beside the San Basilio Chapel. While another one can be found in Maligaya Street.



I got to witness both the Holy Thursday and Good Friday Pasyon Serenata in San Basilio. It's really heartening to see the local community work hard to raise funds to continue this Holy Week tradition. Bringing the bands over to put on a good show, some coming from as far as Sasmuan, is not cheap. And you have to give it to the people of San Basilio for staging this annually.




The marching bands play both Filipino kundimans and international band classics. The group of ladies sing the Kapampangan pabasa to the tune of the band. It was quite amusing hearing Kapampangan verses sung along with music from the Sound of Music. But I really liked the Filipino classics which they played. Each band plays two songs at each turn, one with the pabasa singers and another featuring a brass soloist before turning over the floor to the other band. This goes on until midnight.

So after watching the grand and traditional Good Friday processions in Pampanga, you might want to head over to Brgy. San Basilio to enjoy the performances of Pampanga's best marching bands at the Pasyon Serenata.

Pampanga: Holy Week spectacle at Pampang Road, Angeles City

Pampang Road in Angeles City is another convergence point of Holy Week penitents. The sad part is they've created a circus out of the whole spectacle!



We passed by Pampang early in the evening of Holy Thursday. The whole area was teeming with people. The roads around the crucifixion site and the pabasa were transformed into one big perya sans the rides, but with the games and gambling, tiangge, and the freaks and peculiarities that usually accompany a perya. There were food stalls everywhere and people were drinking. It obviously didn't feel like Holy Week.



It surprised us that this Holy Week subculture of Pampanga had existed under our noses for so long. And yet it was only now that we had discovered it. As we walked towards the pabasa area, we saw more of the action. Street food of all kinds was available. There were different kinds of games and gambling tables, even a pair of Siamese twins selling popcorn.


Then came in the penitents, one by one they entered Pampang Road and proceeded to the pabasa area. We saw a trio of magsalibatbat tied together, crawling their way to the pabasa. Poor souls! The crowd around them was as irreverent as one could think: gawking, giggling, girls shrieking as they took photos of them on their mobile phones, kids running around and blocking their path.


There were flagellants. And then, there were those carrying crosses or mamusan krus, one even accompanied by a bevy of cross-dressers in very short shorts.


What was missing were the kristos who would be nailed the next day. And the cast of magdarame was complete. The hill were the crucifixions were to take place had been wrapped around in banderitas of San Miguel Beer. Indeed, being the center of action, it was prime advertising space! Even worse, I would later find out that the local government sold tickets for prime seats to view the crucifixions!¡Qué horror!


The local government has obviously been cashing in and taking advantage of these annual panatas. The pièce de résistance was a streamer of a local politician trumpeting that Pampang Road was a tourist attraction on Holy Thursday and Good Friday!




Indeed it is an attraction for those who are fans of these peculiarities. I guess this part of Angeles City was simply living up to the city's moniker of Sin City. This chaotic scene must have been similar to that of when Christ cast out the money changers from the Temple. I wonder who, if any, will cast this irreverence out of Pampang Road next Holy Week. While we celebrate the uniqueness of this subculture, I cannot but feel sad that people there have forgotten what Holy Week is all about.

While many may argue that we do celebrate Holy Week in various ways, let's never forget the meaning of Holy Week and the life, death and resurrection of Christ which we commemorate. At the same time, let's not exploit the penitents by earning, especially from corporate funds, out of their panata.

I guess the buzz in Pampang simply mimics what happens at a wake. I was reminded of a book by Renato D. Tayag called The Sinners of Angeles which bravely tackled the political corruption in Angeles in the 1960s. The subculture of Pampang Road is indeed worth writing in another book.

Pampanga: Holy Week flagellation and penitents in Magalang, Pampanga

Pampanga is a hotbed for Holy Week flagellation and Lenten penitents. In Magalang, Pampanga, the barangay of San Agustin is where a lot of these Lenten penitents appear every Holy Thursday and especially Good Friday.



On the way to San Agustin, we chanced upon a group of flagellants preparing for their annual panata. There are actually four basic kinds of penitents or magdarame in Pampanga. The first would be the flagellants or the mamalaspas, those who flog themselves. The second would be the mamusan krus or those who carry crosses. Then there are the magsalibatbat or penitents who crawl on the ground. While the kristos are those who have themselves nailed to the cross every Good Friday.


There are also rituals in preparation for the Lenten penance. They first dress up and are tied up in ropes. Then the flagellants whip themselves or are whipped by a companion until their back muscles swell. This is to numb the pain and speed up the bleeding when incisions are made on his back with a razor blade or broken glass embedded on a small wooden paddle.


Then they walk around town whipping themselves, passing by "holy" places such as churches and the puni (makeshift tents where the pabasa is read). We saw the entire preparation of the group, including the mandatory shots of Red Horse.

Until now, why they do it is a mystery. I was quite surprised to see that the group was actually composed of middle-class Kapampangans. One of the mamusan krus even had braces and was wearing Havaianas! It's something the Center for Kapampangan Studies will try to study in the next few months.


In San Agustin, the mamusan krus carry large banana trunks shaped into a cross. And you could see the penitents collapse from sheer exhaustion since the banana stalks are obviously very heavy. I remember seeing magsalibatbat here before but since it was already sunset, I figured they were already back home resting for Good Friday.

Pampanga: Holy Thursday Dakit Cordero procession in Mabalacat, Pampanga

Holy Thursday is usually commemorated with the cordero ritual. In Morong, Rizal and previously in Betis, Pampanga, the Lamb of God was prepared for an afternoon procession, shaped out of mashed kamote (sweet potatoes) and potatoes. Unfortunately, Betis no longer does the tradition.

We found out that Mabalacat still has its Dakit Cordero (fetching of the lamb) mid-afternoon procession. Dakit Cordero is now a rare Lenten practice of bringing the Lamb of God to the church, symbolic of Jesus' imminent death.


So we drove over to Mabalacat to join the tradition. The procession leaves the town church between 2:30 to 3 p.m. So while waiting, we walked over to the Apung Mamacalulu or the Santo Entierro of the town which is housed in its own chapel in the compound of the caretaker family. Although the church has its own Santo Entierro image, it is this smaller image that is brought out during the Good Friday Santo Entierro procession.



Back at the church, the bells pealed as the procession composed of sacristans, a Marian youth group, and men in barong symbolizing the apostles, left the church for the house of the hermano mayor.


At the house of the hermano mayor, the group was fed. And after a short liturgical ceremony, the cordero was carried by a young lady together with the procession back to the church. Under the lamb is a hollow wooden container shaped like a book. Inside the book is food which people partake of after the blessing of the cordero at the church.


Maybe next year, I'll visit Morong, Rizal where the last of the original cordero processions are held. I hope they are able to revive the one in Betis, Pampanga as well. Some priests can really wreak havoc to local age-old traditions. I hope the current parish priest finds the interest to push for its revival next year.

Destinations this Holy Week and colorful Philippine Semana Santa practices

Thank you to all those who will watch or are watching my guesting on ANC Shop Talk from 3:30 to 4 p.m. this afternoon. If you missed it, replays are at 6:30 to 7 p.m. tonight and 2:30 to 3 a.m. tomorrow. Anyway, the topic for today was Holy Week destinations or areas in the country which people could visit to witness our country's colorful Holy Week or Semana Santa practices.

To begin with, here is a summary of interesting places to visit during Holy Week in Holy Week practices in the Philippines.


Every Holy Thursday, it is also practice for us to do a visita iglesia or a visit to seven churches. For route ideas, check out Visita iglesia to our heritage churches and Visita iglesia and more Holy Week practices in the Philippines.

No doubt, one of the most interesting places to witness Holy Week practices, in particular on Good Friday, is the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. Check out Good Friday in San Fernando, Pampanga and Crucifixion rites held in San Pedro Cutud every Good Friday.

How to get to Clark Airport from Dau Bus Station

Good news to Clark Airport travelers! An air-conditioned shuttle service has started operations at the Clark Airport or Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (DMIA). The DMIA shuttle service utilizes new and fully air-conditioned jeepneys of the Clark Special Economic Zone Transport Federation (CSEZTF).

The service plies the route from the DMIA to the Dau Bus Terminal in Mabalacat and vice versa with stops at the Clark Main Gate and SM City Clark. The fare is Php30 from the Clark Airport/DMIA to the Clark Main Gate and SM City Clark, and Php45 from the airport to the Dau Bus Terminal.

To get to other destinations around Clark, directions to/from Clark Airport to Metro Manila and North Philippines, and the bus schedules, read How to get to and from the Clark Airport which gives the complete details of transportation to Clark Airport.

Update: There is now a free shuttle bus service for AirAisa guests from Clark Airport to Marquee Mall and vice versa. Buses leave Marquee Mall at 09:00, 10:20, 13:00, 15:00, 16:30 and 19:00 arriving in Clark Airport after 20 to 30 minutes. Buses leave Clark Airport for Marquee Mall at 10:00, 11:00, 14:30, 16:00 and 17:40. Another free shuttle is for Dau Bus Station, leaving Clark Airport at 21:20. For more information, contact Victory Liner at +63(2) 5597735 or info@victoryliner.com.

Clark: Day 3 of the 15th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

After watching Day 1 of the 15th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta, I found myself back for Day 3 for our Ultimate Philippines tour.

Our bus left Makati at 3 a.m. and we we're in Clark a little before 5 a.m. It may seem early but it was just right since people were already starting to arrive. In fact, just a few minutes after, crowds started to enter the venue and the ticket line stretched all the way to the street!


It wasn't as sunny as the first day but it was a great show nonetheless. Just like Day 1, the hot air balloons were gone by 7 a.m. After exploring the grounds, we left for breakfast.



And just like last year, we had breakfast at C' Italian Dining. While the restaurant opens at 11 a.m., Chef Chris always makes an exception every year for our group.


On the menu this year was (1) wood fire-baked angus steak with roasted onion, tomatoes and fresh australian mushrooms, (2) fine carved honey-baked ham with fresh sage, (3) crispy bacon with golden crisp potato, (3) Italian sausage braised in pomodoro sauce with asiago cheese, (4) smoked cherry snapper fillet with cucumber garlic dip (5) freshly baked pancake with maple syrup, (6) Italian fritatta with fresh herbs and cheese, (7) freshly baked assorted breads, (8) assorted jams and butter, and (9) orange, grape and tomato juice. Yummy!

On the way to Clark, I noticed Ayala's Marquee Mall which looked quite interesting. Next week, when I go back home to Pampanga, I plan to visit Ayala's Marquee Mall in Angeles City.

Clark: Day 1 of the 15th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

The 15th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta kicked-off last Thursday. It's one of those festivals which get people up really early since the hot air balloons are all gone by 7 a.m. Well, it got me up before the rooster did!

I was in the Clark Freeport shortly before 6 a.m. and the parking lot was already full. And to think it was Thursday. I could just imagine the crowd tomorrow when I go back for Day 3.


The reason they do it really early in the morning is because the weather conditions are usually best at that time for the hot air balloons to fly. While there are so many other activities and exhibitions during the day, the highlight of the festival are the balloons no doubt.

After the flag ceremony where paratroopers from the Philippine Military bring down the Philippine flag from the sky, the hot air balloons are inflated. It takes quite a while. They have to fill it up first with cool air using a fan. And one it takes shape, they pump in warm air using flares.


It's fun seeing the balloons in various shapes. For the 2010 Hot Air Balloon Fiesta, there was one shaped like a beer bottle. Another was Old MacDonald's Farm. There was a yellow sun with a smiling face. And yet another was shaped like a turtle.

If you missed yesterday and today, you still have the weekend to catch the colorful hot air balloons. You have to be in the Clark Freeport in Pampanga by 5:30 a.m. if you want a good spot to watch these hot air balloons take off. So it's best to leave Manila by 3:30 a.m.


I noticed in this year's schedule that they have hot air balloon flights in the afternoon of Saturday. A spectacle you should also check out is the weekend night glow activity during sunset when the balloons are lit up like giant light bulbs with the flares.

Many people ask if you can ride the hot air balloons. Well, don't count on it. It's difficult to get a slot. Make that close to impossible. You can opt for the stationary hot air balloon which takes you up in the air up to about 50 feet. But that's just about it. Entrance fee to the festival for this year is Php150 per head. Here's the 2010 schedule.

Anyway, time to troop to Ayala's Marquee Mall!