Batanes: Batanes heritage in danger!

Batanes is no longer in the running for inscription in the UNESCO World Heritage List. That's unless the Provincial Government of Batanes shows even the slightest interest to have their beautiful province inscribed. Unfortunately, the local government failed to submit the requirements before the February 2010 deadline. So everything is back to square one!

But more urgent is the fact that as I write this entry, there are close to seven new concrete structures being built in the village of Savidug on Sabtang Island. I was shocked to see the construction frenzy during my trip early this month!


For those who are not familiar with Batanes heritage, the villages of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang Island are the two most intact villages of vernacular Ivatan architecture. They are showcases of the Sinadumparan and Maytuab styles of houses. These new hollow block houses being constructed will most definitely destroy the unique architectural fabric of Savidug. The mayor of Sabtang and the governor of Batanes should start moving and do something to preserve the distinct streetscape of Savidug.

According to Architect Joy Mananghaya of the UNESCO National Commission (UNACOM), "There are ordinances protecting the heritage of Batanes. Almost all municipalities have their own ordinance. There is a main ordinance which we had crafted while working on the nomination of the property in 2003. This is Ordinance No. 41 (Series 2002) which is An Ordinance Enacting the Conservation, Development and Management of the Natural and Cultural Heritage Sites in Batanes and Providing Funds Thereof.

"And there are local ordinances in Sabtang such as Ordinance No. 95-05 which is An Ordinance Providing for the Maintenance, Protection and Conservation of a Protected Area along the National Road in Sabtang and Ordinance No. 97-002 which is An Ordinance Establishing the Municipality of Sabtang as a Heritage Island/Village and Creating for this Purpose a Sabtang Municipal Eco-Tourism and Heritage Council. Another local legislation is Resolution 2001-033 which is A Resolution Designating the Cultural and Natural Heritage of the Municipality of Sabtang."


If the local governments of Sabtang and Batanes even care about the inscription in the UNESCO World Heritage List, or at the very least, are interested in preserving the local heritage of Batanes, they better do something to halt these new constructions and make sure they conform with the architectural styles prescribed in the said ordinances.

In fact, UNACOM had already called the attention of Batanes last year regarding another important site, the Racuaydi Nakavajayan (Fountain of Youth) in Mahatao, where the municipal government undertook some new constructions (think cheap looking pools). A letter was sent to Batanes sometime August or September 2009 but the governor did not respond to the said communication.


The nomination of Batanes to the UNESCO World Heritage List started in 2003. In 2005, it was put on deferred status. By 2007, it was on referred status. There had already been a lot of resources poured into the nomination. So far, all the needed information had already been generated and was at hand as early as 2008. All the province had to do was to come up with the dossier. Since the deadline date for submitting the requirements of ICOMOS and the Committee had lapsed, the process of nomination will have to start all over again. However, a new nomination will only happen if the province, particularly its governor and congressman, are receptive to the preparation of a new dossier.

So in the meantime, let's keep our eye on the Mount Hamiguitan Range Wildlife Sanctuary in Davao Oriental which is up for nomination this year to the UNESCO World Heritge List with Batanes now sidetracked as a result of the inaction of their local officials.

Macau: Guia Hill, Penha Hill, Mandarin's House and Macau off the beaten track

Macau has a lot of heritage that few tourists visit. Many of them are even UNESCO World Heritage Sites. During one of the days, we did an off the beaten track exploration of Macau. That included shopping for fresh ingredients at Macau's Red Market.


We started our morning by trekking up to Jardim Luis de Camões (Camões Garden) to watch some of the morning activities of the locals. It was quite amusing seeing a lot of exercise machines installed in a good number of open spaces in Macau (if those were in Manila, I could imagine seeing them in junk shops) because they want to encourage physical fitness among the locals.


Camões Garden is a popular recreation place especially for senior citizens. When we arrived, the senior citizens were playing some games while another group was doing their morning tai chi. As we walked down, we saw a teacher practicing some lines of Chinese opera with his student. Near the front entrance of the park, there were pet birds in really nice bamboo cages, with the owners chatting amongst themselves. We found out that many locals took their pets seriously. Imagine taking birds in cages for a walk?


After our visit to the market, we visited Guia Hill where you could find the Fortaleza da Guia 東望洋炮台, a military fort, chapel, and lighthouse complex which is inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Not that many tourists visit the place owing to its distance from the major tourist areas. But it's worth the visit, especially with its grand view of Macau.

One way to get up the hill is by the Guia Cable Car. They charge MOP/HK$3 per person for one way and MOP/HK$5 for return tickets. But it will also entail some walking from the cable car station to the opposite end of the hill to get to the Guia Fortress. But that of course beats going up and down the steps. You can actually take a cable car going up and walk going down the other route which is what we did.


The Guia Fort and the Capela de Nossa Senhora da Guia 聖母雪地殿教堂 were constructed between 1622 and 1638 after the Dutch had made an unsuccessful attempt to capture Macau from Portugal. The Guia Lighthouse was built between 1864 and 1865.



The next morning, we visited a newly-restored UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Mandarin's House. Our coaster dropped us off at Lilau Square. Largo do Lilau, another UNESCO-inscribed site, is part of the old Christian quarter where the Portuguese first settled in Macau. The area has some interesting architecture with its Portuguese style buildings.

Near the square is the Mandarin’s House, a traditional Chinese-style compound which gives visitors a glimpse into life of aristocrat Chinese under colonial rule. The Mandarin's House is actually the residence of eminent modern Chinese thinker Zheng Guanying and his father Zheng Wenrui.


After exploring the house, the group proceeded to Penha Hill, another place offering grand views of Macau and Mainland China, especially Macau Tower. If the A-Ma Temple was where Chinese sailors paid homage before embarking on a trip, the Penha Chapel served as the pilgrimage place for Portuguese sailors before leaving for long journeys.


If you do go to Macau, and have some time to spare, you might want to include its gardens, parks and hills in your itinerary. The views are stunning. I remember visiting both Guia and Penha Hill in 2005 by foot!

I didn't expect to be in Macau twice last month. And I was quite amused of the prospect of going again this month, but plans changed. So that ends my Macau series for now. Time to talk about neighboring Hong Kong.

International Day for Monuments and Sites 2010 celebrates the heritage of agriculture

In 1983, UNESCO endorsed April 18 as the International Day for Monuments and Sites, on the proposal of the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS). According to ICOMOS, "This special day offers an opportunity to raise public awareness concerning the diversity of the world’s heritage and the efforts that are required to protect and conserve it, as well as to draw attention to its vulnerability."

Every year, ICOMOS assigns a theme to the celebration. And this year's theme is: The Heritage of Agriculture.


The Philippines is no stranger to agricultural heritage. In fact, ICOMOS notes that the very first agricultural landscape inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List were the spectacular Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras in 1995. The inscription of the rice terraces, according to Henry Cleere, “established an important precedent by identifying the significance of landscapes that evolved in the production of significant staple and economic crops.”


With many agrarian communities around the country, almost every province in the Philippines has agricultural heritage. The cultural landscape of Batanes includes hedgerows which form quilt-like patterns across the farming hillsides of Batan Island. According to the Batanes Provincial Government, "They divide farm lots, protect crops from the wind, control erosion, host migrant birds and other species, and provide wood and reeds for domestic use."

Another example of agricultural heritage in Batanes is the Racuh a Payaman, which literally means wide pasture. This communal pasture collectively managed by the townsfolk, says the Batanes Provincial Government, depicts a people that values community ownership over private property. It adds that the beauty of Racuh is as awe-inspiring as the concept that it represents: that collective management is best where land space is limited.



Ilocos Norte has its tobacco heritage. The 19th century Tabacalera warehouse in Laoag has been adaptively-reused as the Museo Ilocos Norte.


Pampanga, Tarlac and Negros Occidental share the same sugar heritage. In San Fernando, Pampanga, the 1921 sugar central of the Pampanga Sugar Development Company (PASUDECO) still produces sugar. This structure is an inherent part of the industrial heritage of Pampanga.


In Victorias, Negros Occidental, many visit the Victorias Milling Company (VIMICO) to see its Chapel of the Angry Christ. Most if not all the grand mansions of Negros were built by sugar.

Many bahay na bato in rice producing areas had a camalig or rice granary beside it. In Angeles City, the camalig of the Nepomuceno House was adaptively-reused as a restaurant, the popular Historic Camalig Restaurant of Armando's Pizza.

In Laguna, the University of the Philippines established its College of Agriculture in 1909 on a 73-hectare abandoned farmland at the foot of the Mt. Makiling. By 1917, the campus had grown to 127 hectares with seven buildings, 500 students and an alumni association with 100 graduates. Many of those original structures still stand in UP Los Banos.


Straddling the boundary of Laguna and Quezon is Villa Escudero, a coconut plantation representative of the agricultural heritage of Southern Tagalog. A pioneering agro-industrialist, Don Arsenio Escudero constructed the country's first hydroelectric plant to supply his desiccated coconut factory and coconut plantation with electricity. (Photo by Augusto Villalon)

It is said that the grand mansions in the heritage towns of Sariaya, Quezon and San Juan, Batangas were built from the proceeds of the coconut trade.


ICOMOS also notes the intangible dimension of agricultural heritage, which Celia Martinez Yanez divides into rituals and festive events, on one hand, and skills, knowledge and traditional craftsmanship concerning nature and the universe, on the other.

The UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity contains properties related to agricultural heritage such as the Hudhud Chants of the Ifugao (inscribed in 2008, originally proclaimed in 2001) which consists of narrative chants performed "during the rice sowing season, at harvest time and at funeral wakes and rituals."


There are many harvest-related festivals all over the country. On the feast day of San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of farmers, are held the Pahiyas (Lucban), Agawan (Sariaya) and Mayohan (Tayabas) all in Quezon; and the Pulilan Carabao Festival in Bulacan. Every May 3, the UNESCO World Heritage City of Vigan, Ilocos Sur celebrates the Tres de Mayo Festival.

A physical reminder of knowledge of nature and the universe are the Stone Agricultural Calendars of Dap-ay Guiday in Besao (Bontoc, Mountain Province), which are National Cultural Treasures.

What is the agricultural heritage of your province? Share them by commenting below.

Ivan Anthony Henares is a member of the ICOMOS Philippines National Committee and expert member of the International Cultural Tourism Committee (ICTC).

Macau: Historic Centre of Macao 澳門歷史城區, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Historic Centre of Macao 澳門歷史城區 was inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2005. Later that year, I made my first trip to Macau. And I literally walked the whole Macau Peninsula visiting all the 25 sites included in the UNESCO inscription.

I was glad to be back again last week for a different kind of walking tour around old Macau since this time, we visited the alleys and side streets most tourists take for granted.

We started our walk at the old Ponte No. 16 Building which was where Sofitel Macau At Ponte 16 is. From there, we made our way to Senado Square along San Ma Lo or Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, then through the alleys and small side streets where we saw a good number of interesting old structures.



Senado Square is the center of old Macau. Around it are the Leal Senado Building, Santa Casa da Misericórdia, the Macau Post Office Building and other grand old structures. What I like about the area is the fact that the signages are simple and not intrusive, unlike those in the Philippines which tend to grab too much attention.


From Senado Square, we walked towards the Ruins of St. Paul, passing by St. Dominic's Church. From the Ruins of St. Paul, we took escalators up to the Museu de Macau which documents and presents the history of Macau and its people.

According to UNESCO, Macau was inscribed in the World Heritage List because it "bears a unique testimony to the first and longest-lasting encounter between the West and China. From the 16th to the 20th centuries, it was the focal point for traders and missionaries, and the different fields of learning. The impact of this encounter can be traced in the fusion of different cultures that characterise the historic core zone of Macao."

Macau also "represents an outstanding example of an architectural ensemble that illustrates the development of the encounter between the Western and Chinese civilisations over some four and half centuries, represented in the historical route, with a series of urban spaces and architectural ensembles, that links the ancient Chinese port with the Portuguese city."


The 25 sites include churches: St. Lawrence's Church, St. Joseph's Seminary and Church, St. Augustine's Church, Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady, St. Dominic's Church 玫瑰堂, Ruins of St. Paul 大三巴牌坊 and St. Anthony's Church; temples: A-Ma Temple 媽閣廟, Sam Kai Vui Kun or Kuan Tai Temple, and Na Tcha Temple 大三巴哪吒廟; government and institutional buildings: Leal Senado Building, Moorish Barracks, Dom Pedro V Theatre 伯多祿五世劇院, Sir Robert Ho Tung Library, and Holy House of Mercy or Santa Casa da Misericórdia 仁慈堂大樓; plazas and open spaces: Lilau Square, St. Augustine's Square and Senado Square 議事亭前地; residences: Mandarin's House, Lou Kau Mansion and Casa Garden; fortifications: Section of the Old City Walls, Mount Fortress or Fortaleza do Monte 大炮台, and Guia Fortress 東望洋炮台 which includes Guia Chapel and Guia Lighthouse; and cemeteries: Old Protestant Cemetery 基督教墳場 and the old headquarters of the British East Indies Company.

Merry Christmas to all!

Aklanon - Malipayon nga Paskwa ag Mahigugmaon nga Bag-ong Dag-on!
Asi - Maadong Santos Paskwa ag Masadyang Bag-ong Tuig!
Ata - Maroyan na Pasko woy Kaopia-an ng Bag-ong Tuig kaniyo't langon mga sulod
Bikol - Maogmang Capascuhan asin Mamura-way na Ba-gong Taon sa indo gabos!
Blaan - Pye duh di kaut Kristo klu munt ug Felemi Fali!
Binubolinao - Marigan Nabidad
Boholano - Malipajong Pasko ug Maajong Bag-ong Tuig
Cebuano - Maayong Pasko ug Bulahang Bag-ong Tuig!
Chavacano - Felices Pascuas y Prospero Año Nuevo con todos!
Dibabawon - Marayaw na Pasko aw Bag-ong Tuig kaniyo tibo na mga soon!
Gaddang - Mangamgam Bawa a dawun sikua diaw amin
Hiligaynon - Malipayon nga Paskua kag Malipayon Nga Bag-ong tuig!
Hungduan - Maphon au nitungawan. Apo Dios Kituwen baron di toon
Ibanag - Mapalupaguiya nga Pascua
Ibaloi - Eshadsak ja Paskua! Eshadsak ja Badon Tawen!
Ifugao - Malinggop an Baro an Tawon
Ilocano - Naimbag a Pascua ken Naragsac nga Baro nga Tawen!
Kankanaey - Gawis ay Paskua ya Nalagsak ay Balo ay Tu-en!
Kapampangan - Masayang Pascu ampong Masaplalang Bayung Banua kekayu ngan!
Mandobo - Mepiya Pagasaulog sa pagka-otawni Jesus aw maontong kaling Omay!
Mangyan Buhid - Fiya Pagpasko
Mangyan Hanunuo - Mayad paq Pasko
Mansaka - Madyaw na Pasko aw malipayong Bag-ong Tuig kamayo, mga lumon!
Masbatenyo - Malipayon nga Paskwa
Onhan - Mayad nga Paskwa kag Masadya nga Bag-ong Tuig!
Pangasinan - Maabig ya Pasko! Maliket ya Balon Taon!
Romblomanon - Malipayon nga Paskwa kag Masadya na Bag-ong Tuig!
Sambal - Maligayang Pasko at Masayang Ba-yon Taon!
Subanen - Piak Pasko pu Piag Bago Tawn!
Surigaonon - Malipayon na Pasko sanan Bag-on Tuig!
Tagakaolo - Madyaw Pagsalog sa Pagka-otaw ni Jesus
Tagalog - Maligayang Pasko at Manigong Bagong Taon!
Tala-andig - Maayad ha Pasko daw Bag-ong Tuig!
Waray-waray - Maupay nga Pasko ngan Mainuswagon nga Bag-o nga Tuig!

...wishing for a united Filipino nation this Christmas!

Heritage watch
The lack of funds is hampering efforts to restore our world famous rice terraces. Check out the PDI article here. According to the article, "the (UNESCO) team 'noted with concern' that little progress was made to implement the recommendation of two teams that visited the terraces in September 2001 and June 2005 that called for the preparation of a comprehensive conservation and management plan for the terraces.

"The teams also asked for the allocation of steady funds to address the challenges, to be drawn from the conservation plan.

"Unesco said the 'corrective' measures on the rice terraces must be ready by the end of 2007 as a condition for the removal of the terraces from the list of endangered world heritage sites."

It adds, "Unesco earlier included these terraces in the endangered list after its inspection teams found out that the terraces have deteriorated due to uncontrolled construction of houses, erosion induced by climate and abandonment of the terraces by the farmers."

Imagine, the government is proposing a PHP1.29 trillion budget and yet it spent less than PHP1 million for the Ifugao Rice Terraces, a national cultural treasure and UNESCO World Heritage Site. I hope the NCCA speeds up the release of the PHP50 million rehabilitation fund. And even better, I hope Congress increases the budget for the restoration of our heritage!

Ilocos Norte: More notes on empanada central

Sorry it took quite a while for the second part of my empanada binge. School work just piled up. Lucky for me, I'm on a six day weekend! I don't have classes on Tuesdays and Fridays. Classes were suspended by the administration last Thursday for President Roman's investiture and were suspended again on Monday due to the closure of Commonwealth Avenue. But it's a declared non-working holiday as well making it a double whammy on my professors' class schedules... hehe!

I could not believe my craving for Ilocos' sumptuous fritters is still alive since I really made it a point to buy an empanada at Ilocos Empanada in Katipunan last night.

Anyway, back to the Ilocos trip...

DAY 2. After breakfast, our first stop for the day was the third UNESCO World Heritage site in the Ilocos provinces, the Church of San Agustin in Paoay. On Paoay, Toti Villalon writes, "Built in 1710 under the direction of the Agustinian order, the ensemble of the church and detached bell towers are truly majestic in scale when viewed from the edge of the plaza that faces the ensemble. Detached from the church façade the bell tower tapers as it rises from the ground in a fashion reminiscent of a pagoda. The stone façade is plain at the bottom. Light, elegant decorative carving is applied close to the top of the pediment. A row of feathery stone finials that seem to gently brush the sky with delicate Oriental strokes accentuate the triangular top of the pediment. The earthquake protection system in this structure is probably its most dramatic feature. Exaggeratedly thick buttresses protrude quite a distance from the ground to be countered by a smaller volute near roof level topped by a stone finial. Swirling upwards to the sky, the massive stone buttresses take on a magical lightness."

I not only went around the church but took a quick walk around the vicinity. I did not want to take photos of the Spanish-period municipio since they were currently constructing an annex on one of its two azoteas/balconajes or whatever those are called. Sigh!

Beside it was the Gabaldon school building of Paoay. One thing I noticed about Ilocos towns is that they have small houses but massive churches and belltowers detached from the main church. Whereas in Pampanga, there are magnificent and elaborate mansions but smaller churches. Jojo Mata later explained that in Ilocos, most churches also doubled as forts, serving as protection against Chinese or Moro pirates. The massive belltowers were built at a distance to protect the church from damage in case the tower collapsed during an earthquake.

Since we didn't have that much time, I wasn't able to visit the other side of the church where one could find the ruins of the church convento. Maybe next time.

Next on the itinerary was the "imperial birthblace" of the Marcos clan back in Batac. Reinventing family heritage is what has been done in Batac, a result of the dillusions of royalty of my fraternity brod, President Ferdinand E. Marcos and First Lady Imelda R. Marcos. Since the Marcos Mausoleum is in Batac, people often mistake the town for his birthplace when he was actually born in Sarrat. The museum of another fraternity brod, Marcos' chief rival Sen. Benigno "Ninoy" Aquino, finds itself in a similar situation being located on the Cojuanco property of Hacienda Luisita in Tarlac City rather than the Aquino hometown of Concepcion, Tarlac.

Batac underwent a sort of metamorphosis during the Marcos administration to make it appeal to the fantasies and edifice complex of the former first family. And the Marcos Mausoleum is the pinnacle of that folly with the mortal remains of the late dictator preserved and enshrined there. The advanced wax preservation technique used to keep his body intact was employed in the hope of pushing the Marcos legend beyond Philippine shores, putting him side by side with other powerful leaders such as Vlademir I. Lenin, Mao Zedong, and Ho Chi Minh whose embalmed bodies have been preserved for future generations.

After paying homage to the Apo, it was off to the provincial capital, Laoag City to visit the Museo Iloko, the obra mata, I mean maestra of Archt. Jojo Mata. The award winning project, the adaptive reuse of an old Tabacalera building, gives visitors a glimpse of the culture of Ilocos Norte. After that brief tour, we were given time to loiter around Laoag. So it was off to the plaza for photos.

One sad thing about Laoag is the new symbol that welcomes you. Before, it was only the massive sinking belltower which one saw while traversing the bridge that brought you to the town proper. Now you have golden arches as well. The local government should be hanged to dry from the big yellow "M" for allowing such an incident to happen. They should follow the lead of UPLB officials who raised hell and ordered the removal of the large golden arches which were installed near the entrance of the UPLB campus.

After taking photos, it was back to the dap-ayan where the bus was waiting. And another two servings of empanada! With my stomach filled, I had to skip the picnic lunch we were going to have in Sarrat, the birthplace of Marcos, which was put on the social map as a result of the elaborate and costly wedding of Irene Marcos to Greggy Araneta.

The facade of the Sarrat Church actually collapsed together with the belltower during an earthquake in the early 1980s. It was repaired just in time for the Marcos-Araneta nuptial. Beside it is a huge convento and a complex of brick ruins that used to house government offices such as a courthouse and jail. Labels to rooms read "Torture Chamber" and "Garrote Room" reminding visitors of the grim happenings that used to occur in the place. After lunch, it was off to Pagudpud with a brief but important stopover in Burgos.

A UNESCO World Heritage hopeful under the listing "Lighthouses of the Philippines" and if those proposing their inclusion get their act right, the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse in Burgos is simply stunning, a solitary masterpiece majestically perched on the foothills at the northern tip of Luzon. As people well-versed in UNESCO selections would say, it's a matter of packaging if you want to get listed. Believe it or not, the city of Rome was rejected when it applied the first time mainly because they submitted the whole city which had a lot of alterations already. But the current listing shows that they selected important sites in the city now listed as the Historic Centre of Rome.

Some people are proposing to have all the lighthouses declared. But part of application is proof that a site can and will be preserved. Some lighthouses are already in bad shape. And these rotten eggs may become the reason for the rejection of the whole lot. It would thus be better to pick say three or five of the best examples of Philippine lighthouses for submission to the UNESCO list. That way, the pitch would be more managable with lesser opportunities for scrutiny from the UNESCO experts.

Batanes had to learn the hard way with their rejection last year. In fact, the islands were a shoe in for listing. But the provincial government played know it all, or in the vernacular, nagmarunong! They felt they could do it on their own and purposely did not contact the Philippine experts who had been hard at work preparing the application for Batanes. To make the long story short and to put it bluntly, they fucked up the application requirements.

Nothing was to stop us from a dip in Pagudpud after Burgos. Nothing except the windmills of Bangui which led to a five minute stop. And a storm brewing which brought waves lashing along the shoreline! But despite the intermitent downpour and gray skies, a swim in the beach was a fun finish to the Ilocos tour.

It was now time to begin the trip down. But not without a stop in Laoag's dap-ayan for more empanadas! Hehe! The stopover was actually for those who wanted to buy bagnet but I had something else on my food list, two empanadas for dinner. After a brief stop in our dorm in Batac, it was back to Manila and straight to class. We arrived 9 a.m. Monday, just in time for me to cram a paper and attend my 10 a.m. class.

More Ilocos Norte photos at my Yahoo! Photos. Thanks to Karlo de Leon for photos of myself and the empanadas... hehehe! You can check out his photos at http://www.photonski.com/keinite

Thailand: The historic city of Ayutthaya

I didn't try to wake up early today since I had been travelling nightly for the past few days and this was my first time in a bed since I left Bangkok Tuesday. In fact, I don't even consider Monday night as sleep since I was rushed to the hospital early in the morning. Hehe! So I was up by about 9:20 a.m. if I'm not mistaken. It was raining! Just great! So I was pondering whether to push through with Ayutthaya.

I ate breakfast at the same place Ton and I ate dinner Monday night. This time, I had green papaya salad (the less spicy version) and phad thai. Hehe! The rain stopped so I decided to go even if it continued raining. Going tomorrow was out of the question since I did not want to be caught in the Sunday madrush back to Bangkok.

So I got dressed and took a cab to the Hualamphong Train Station which was the grand old station of Bangkok. Our main train station in the Philippines was the Tutuban Train Station. But since Filipinos think of building nothing except malls and shopping centers, that grand old station of ours is a shopping mall today. Sigh! Although I'm happy they did adaptive reuse since the old structure is still standing. I hope when the Northrail is completed, they reinclude this old building as the main entrance to the new terminal.

Ayutthaya is about an hour and a half from Bangkok. I arrived at the station in the nick of time since the next train left in ten minutes. I was charged only THB15 for the trip! It was a non-aircon train but it was quite ok since it was a short ride and there were not much people in it. On the way, it started raining again. Sigh! I arrived in Ayutthaya at about 1:30 p.m.

The train station at Ayutthaya reminded me of our own old train stations along the Manila-Dagupan route. I hope the policy makers of the Northrail project realize that these old stations are a better attraction than any new ones they will build. They could easily equip these old structures with modern amenities inside if they wanted to. Check out the ICOMOS Philippines blog for photos of these old train stations today.

In the station, there was a sign board which detailed the tuktuk and taxi fares from the station to any particular site in the city. That is a must in every tourist city so that cheating drivers could easily be detected. At the bottom, there was also an option for a tour at THB200 an hour. Hmmmm... since it was raining, I decided to rent out a taxi for an hour and hope the rains stop a bit.

The Historic City of Ayutthaya and Associated Historic Towns was inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1991. I was founded in the year 1350, and became the second Siamese capital after Sukhothai, another UNESCO site. The city was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century and the structures that remain are characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and gigantic monasteries, a somber reminder of its past glory.

The nearest important site to the station was the Wat Yai Chaya Mongkol. Entrance fee was THB20. I took quite a while inside since it was difficult to move around due to the rain. So I told the driver to bring we to the Wat Mahathat where I would take a walk to other nearby sites.

It was heavy traffic into town due to the water wars along the street. From the bridge, you could see pick-up trucks seemingly parked along the street as its passengers at the back ensued in water fights with each other. So the driver made a turn to avoid the area. We got to Wat Mahathat a few minutes later where I got off and paid him THB200 for the 1 hour. By this time, the rain stopped a bit. Good! Entrance fee to the site was THB30.

Next to the Wat Mahathat was the Wat Ratcha Burana. Entrance fee was another THB30. Hmmmm, every site had its own ticket. And that helps raise funds to maintain the sites. I wonder why the Philippines does not charge for visiting its UNESCO sites. Hehe! It reminded me of Hue since each royal tomb had a US$3 ticket. Once declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it increases market value as well. Hehe!

As soon as I had exited, the rain started to get stronger again. So I ran to the nearby restaurant to have a late lunch. It was a traditional setting since you sat on a suchion on the floor. And the view of Wat Ratcha Burana was great and relaxing. After the meal, I waited outside for a tuktuk but none passed by.

Walking to the next site was out of the question since it was raining and there were so many pick-ups just going around with new year revellers at the back with drums and pails of water looking for hapless victims to drench even further. As if the rains were not enough! Hehe! It was a very lively atmosphere with passengers at the back banging on drums and pans, shouting, chanting and singing, or dancing to the beat of the loud music being played up front the vehicle. Well, I had a camera and celphone to protect so I really avoided getting wet. Hehe!

By this time, for some reason, my camera lens fogged. And it seemed like it wasn't going to dry up within the next few minutes. Sigh! So I guess that was my signal to go home. I checked mail a bit to kill time and then took a walk to the ferry station that would bring me to the train station. On the way, I happened to pass by the bus station. Just great! Hehe! Since it was raining, I decided to take an aircon bus. It was THB50 back to Bangkok. On the train, that would have been THB40. So that was not bad at all.

Philippines is highly-recommended destination by travel magazines for 2013

View on the way up to Kayangan Lake, Coron, Palawan

The Philippines is the destination to visit for 2013! That's according to three popular international travel publishers. And they have nothing but good words about our island paradise.

Condé Nast Traveller included the Philippines in its top ten Destinations to watch in 2013. The article reads, "For travellers willing to go the extra thousand miles for a deserted beach, the Philippines has around 7,000 of the most heavenly islands in the world. It's still not the most obvious beach-holiday destination, but it soon will be."

Alona Beach in Panglao Island, Bohol

Among the recommended destinations are Bicol, Siargao, Palawan and even Manila! They add, "Sorry, Maldives... We love you, but we've got a new flame."

Willie's Rock in Boracay Island, Aklan

Travel + Leisure Magazine named the Philippines as part of its Hottest Travel Destinations of 2013. The article recommends resorts in Boracay, Panglao and El Nido. Just last year, Boracay topped the same magazine's survey for best island in the world for its 2012 World's Best Awards!

Looking out of the Puerto Princesa Underground River in Palawan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Lonely Planet chose Palawan to be part of its Best in Travel 2013 - Top 10 regions. Dubbed as the "ultimate archipelago for adventurers," they recommend Palawan for off the beaten track, adventure and culture.

They write, "Palawan incorporates thousands of sparkling, rugged islands and is fringed by 2000km of pristine coastline. So far Palawan’s natural marvels have only been sampled by plucky backpackers. Not for much longer. The trail these pioneers have blazed is set to explode, with regional airlines waking up to Palawan’s potential and clambering to schedule direct flights to the capital. Throw in the mushrooming growth of style-conscious boutique hotels normally found in places like Ko Samui or Bali, and you can feel that Palawan is ready to hit the big-time in 2013."

Boracay Island's White Beach (Station 1)

Also part of Best in Travel 2013 is a guided trek of Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park in its Best places to do something new. In particular, the article recommends the Philippines to see the newest animal which can be found in the park. They write, "What’s two metres long, lives in the trees and has a double penis? Varanus bitatawa, of course. The enormous monitor lizard, though well-known to local tribes (who consider it tasty eatin’), was only identified by scientists in 2009. A herbivorous relative of the komodo dragon, it’s about as close to a dinosaur as you’re going to get." DOT should definitely start developing our nature trails!

Dazzling sunset seen from the shores of Boracay Island

Lonely Planet also included the Philippines in its top ten best beach hotspots and top ten classics for castaways island destinations.

We almost scored a grand slam. But unfortunately, National Geographic Traveler left us out this year. Palawan already made their Inaugural Best Trips List in 2011 (at least we were top of mind). But with great recommendations from these equally reputable travel magazines, I'm sure they'll rediscover us this year and include a new Philippine destination in their 2014 list.

Batad Rice Terraces in Banaue, Ifugao, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Historic Town of Vigan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

I'm actually hoping better accommodation in the Ifugao Rice Terraces and Vigan will get them noticed too. Hint to investors out there! These places have potential and need first class accommodation.

So make that trip to our islands because It's more fun in the Philippines!

Update (01/12/2013): We're on a roll! The New York Times included the Philippines in The 46 Places to Go in 2013.

They write, "Idyllic white sand beaches, secluded, little-known surf towns, and pristine reefs are among the natural draws of this country made up of over 7,000 tropical islands. Now in addition to the more upscale choices cropping up in former backpacking enclaves like Boracay, there is a new generation of luxury hotels opening even further afield. The new Dedon Island resort on Siargao, for example, is close to one of the world’s best surf breaks, Cloud 9 (Kelly Slater is a fan), and has an outdoor cinema along with spa and paddle board classes. And the private island resort of El Nido Pangulasian opens this month in the Unesco biosphere of Palawan, right by some of the world’s most pristine diving spots. Although the Philippines has been subject to travel advisories in the past, they mostly focus on Mindanao in the south."

In a customer survey of Agoda.com, with feedback from 113,000 respondents, Boracay was selected as the top destination for seeking out relaxation and tranquility and ranked third in the top ten cities for nightlife. Manila ranked 22nd in the same global survey.

The Philippines was also named as one of the top five Best Tourism Destinations at the 2012 Oriental Morning Post's World Travel - Special Trips Awards held last January 9, 2013.