Monday, February 02, 2009

Joint Statement of the Heritage Conservation Society and ICOMOS Philippines on the Dingras Church

A call to arms and a sound of alarms! Once again, a historic structure in our country is threatened. What makes it even more alarming is that it happens in the same province, Ilocos Norte in almost the same period of time. First the planned demolition of the Laoag Central Elementary School, a perfectly usable, intact and beautiful example of 1920s education architecture in exchange for a mall, and now the proposed demolition of the centuries old façade of the Church of San José de Dingras to be replaced by what would most likely be a poor replica of the former.

What gives? Dingras is one of the most picturesque facades in the country not due to its Baroque grandeur, but because of its perfectly beautiful proportions, the patina of the ancient bricks and more importantly its enduring and eternal visage of a ruin. The church of Dingras like most colonial churches in the country experienced numerous re-buildings during its course in history, and like similar structures in Ilocos have conflicting information. An earlier structure, presumably made of light materials was built before 1620, which was damaged during the earthquake of November 11 of the same year. Another conflicting report this time by Captain Don Lucas Mariano de Ochoa, together with his barangay heads in 1710, mentions that the church of Dingras had been constructed by their minister Fray Alonso Cortes OSA 30 years ago, c. 1678-1680 and that by the year of writing, 1710, only the brick walls remained. Noted Church historian Regalado Trota-Jose on the other hand mentions a brick church being built in the late 1670's collapsing in the earthquake of 1707. Whichever information is correct it is presumed that this solid structure may be surmised as the second church of Dingras.

This structure may have undergone rebuilding but was subsequently consumed by fire in 1838, which also gutted the whole town. Father Pedro Galende OSA mentions that in 1879, Fray Damask Vieytez OSA built the present church, which is described as being huge and massive. But Trota-Jose corrects this by stating that the church was built sometime during the priorship of Fray Vieytez from 1846 to 1854, the year the said builder died. The church again underwent renovation, this time fixing the roof and replacing it with metal sheets during the incumbencies of Fray Ricardo Diaz OSA (1879-1893) and Fray Fidel Franco OSA (1894-1898), whom Galende identifies as Saturnino Franco. Fire and earthquake again destroyed the church in 1914 and 1931, which made the structure unsafe and subsequently abandoned. A smaller concrete structure was built on the plaza across the street, which served as the house of worship for the town. The ruins of the old church remained standing throughout this time and became a beautiful and nostalgic setting for pictorials and even concerts. In the past decade the church has been re-opened and masses again have been conducted inside the refurbished and retrofitted structure.

The architecture of Dingras is also significant not only in the annals of Philippine architectural history but more importantly Ilocos Architecture for this together with the facades of the churches of San Nicolas, Piddig, and the original pre-1984 facades of Sarrat and Vintar follow the manner and character of the Vignola masterpiece of the Church of Il Gesu in Rome. Sadly with the proposed demolition of this façade gone would be this fine example, with only that of the Church of San Nicolas serving as the only remnant to this once popular style.

Why demolish this ancient brick façade? It would appear that the ruin is precariously leaning on to the newly built gym like shed built by the parish during the early parts of this century. After standing and buffeting typhoons, earthquakes, wars, pollution and other unknown forces, the façade, though showing its age is still massively strong and with the proper methods of conservation and shoring would allow it to continue gracing and serving the populace of Dingras and people who appreciate and understand the meaning of continuity.

Other leaning facades have been shored up and made safe for people to appreciate. One does not need to travel far to see how, through a concerted effort, a historic ruin was saved and even elevated to become not just an icon of a community but a whole promotional tool of a region, a people and a country.

Macao's world renowned ruins of the Jesuit Church of Saint Paul are a prime example of how a façade could be shored up, strengthened and saved for generations to come. Began in 1602, the church like those in the Philippines suffered numerous travails in its colorful history. In 1835 fire destroyed the church leaving only a pile of rubble and a wonderful façade standing. Restoration efforts in the early 1990's resulted in supporting the ruins by building a concrete inner stencil that would serve as a reinforcement of the Baroque façade. Today, the ruins of St. Paul are the must see tourist destination aside from the Casinos that litter today Macao's quaint islands.

What was done in Macao, can be done in Dingras. Economically speaking it may even be more prudent to just build a retaining inner wall than to tear down a heavy masonry façade and rebuild it following the same lines and specifications of the original. Artistically and technically speaking, the methods, know-how and artistry of today compare poorly to the craftsmanship of the 19th century. Finally, do the people of Dingras understand the repercussions of loosing a vital piece of their heritage even if the façade were to be replaced by a replica! A replica remember does not replace the original, for whatever reason one gives. The best is still the original, and a replica is but considered a fake.

One wonders why this project is even being considered. True, the need to shore up the façade is pressing. The safety of anyone visiting this shrine of faith is the paramount concern of the parish. But do the necessary agencies both local and national know of the proposed demolition of this historic façade? If they do, are they inept enough to even suggest the demolition instead of alternative processes of rehabilitation of a vital monument? One wonders again at the ineptitude of government and the people elected therein in suggesting the opposite of the complete conservation, preservation and rehabilitation of such vital infrastructure. Though the building is a private structure, its heart and soul lie deep in every Catholic and Filipino that roams the land.

Pampanga: 14th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta

The 14th Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta will be held in Clark, Pampanga from February 12 to 15, 2009. Our Valentine's Day tour to the festival is fully-booked already but you can e-mail us at info@ivanhenares.com if you want to be included in the waiting list.

Anyway, you can catch the hot air balloon flights from 5:30 to 7 a.m. daily during the festival. That means leaving Manila by 4 a.m. to be sure you make it on time. Take into consideration that the later you arrive, the harder to find parking.

The schedule also mentions flights late in the afternoon but I'm not quite sure about this since the evenings are usually for the night glow event which you should not miss. Night glow is scheduled for Saturday, 6:45 to 7:30 p.m. The full schedule of the festival is here.

Sunday, February 01, 2009

Longaniza Leyte (Bato)

The Leyte version of longaniza is sweet (or matamis). Each link is further divided into three shorter links shaped like balls. This Leyte longaniza is from the Bato Public Market. The one being grilled in the lower photo is available at stalls beside the Bato Port Terminal.

Main article: Longanizas of the Philippines

Friday, January 30, 2009

Longaniza Pampanga (San Fernando) of Everybody's Cafe

Pampanga longanizas have become so popular because of the many commercial brands available in the market. But would be interesting to investigate the traditional varieties of longaniza in the province. In San Fernando, Everybody's Cafe still makes San Fernando longaniza the same way they did in San Fernando decades ago. The San Fernando longaniza would fall under the hamonado category and is not as sweet as the commercial brands but sweet nonetheless, and garlicky (or mabawang). Notice the reddish color of the longaniza when cooked.

Main article: Longanizas of the Philippines

Zambales: Nagsasa Cove in San Antonio, Zambales

Who ever said Anawangin Cove is one of a kind? Well, it is! But Nagsasa Cove is most definitely in the same league! Just 20 minutes further down from Anawangin Cove, Nagsasa is one amazing beach! Just like Anawangin, it's perfect for camping and it doesn't get too many visitors. It's a beach that was created by the Mt. Pinatubo eruption when volcanic material found its way to Nagsasa.

At the same time, Nagsasa Cove is home to an Ayta community which relocated there. There are about four picnic tables but that's just about it. You might want to opt to share a meal with the Ayta community and request them to fish dinner for you.

It's the same jump-off point as Anawangin in Pundaquit, San Antonio, Zambales. Just tell the boatman to bring you to Nagsasa Cove.

Thanks to Ryan Guzman for the photos. He's organizing a group camping tour to Nagsasa from February 21 to 22. You can text him at (0928) 9067151 for details.

Here's information on Anawangin Cove and Capones Island. The jump-off point for all these wonderful places is in Pundaquit Beach.
Part 1: Hiking up Mt. Anawangin and down to the beach
Part 2: Anawangin Cove in San Antonio, Zambales
Part 3: Capones Island and its lighthouse

San Pablo's Seven Lakes tour
Here's another tour on February 21, an adventure day tour of the Seven Lakes of San Pablo, Laguna. Maximum of 14 participants. The PHP1,600 tour fee covers transportation and toll expenses, entrance fees, a lakeside lunch beside Sampaloc Lake, and some local delicacies as pasalubong. E-mail info@pinoymountaineer.com to book.

SEAIR announces special rate for Valentine's

Talk about being literal for Valentine's Day with SEAIR's P14,344 promo! With the "I love you very much" rate, you can get round-trip tickets from Manila to Boracay or Busuanga at "Buy 1, Take 2" or Manila to Batanes at "Buy 1, Take 1."

This great deal will be available only at the 16th Travel Tour Expo from February 6 to 8 at SEAIR Booths 85 & 95, SMX Convention Center, SM Mall of Asia Complex. For inquiries and reservations, please call SEAIR at (632)8490100. For packages please call SEAIR Leisure Escape Packages at (632) 8437308.

Cavite: Corregidor's artillery batteries

Ever since my first visit to Corregidor Island, I've been fascinated by the island's many artillery batteries. The U.S. Army post on Corregidor was named Fort Mills. The surrounding islands also had artillery batteries as well as Grande Island, which was Fort Wint, in Subic Bay. On Caballo Island was Fort Hughes, El Fraile was Fort Drum, and on Carabao Island was Fort Frank.

During a day-trip to Corregidor, you only get to visit three of them as part of the island tour. But if you want to see more of them, you'll have to stay overnight on the island. It looks like documenting these Corregidor batteries will be another project. I heard however that many of the coastal batteries no longer have guns. They were stolen and sold for scrap some decades ago. It's really sad.

Here's a list of heavy seacoast batteries, and medium and light fixed and semi-fixed gun batteries on Corregidor Island (Fort Mills):
  • Cheney
  • Concepcion
  • Crockett
  • Cushing
  • Geary
  • Grubbs
  • Hanna
  • Hamilton
  • Hearn
  • James
  • Kysor
  • Levagood
  • Martin
  • Maxwell Keyes
  • Monja
  • Morrison
  • Ordnance Point
  • Ramsay
  • R.J. 43
  • Rock Point
  • Smith
  • Stockade
  • Sunset
  • Way
  • Wheeler
Main article: Corregidor Island day trip via Sun Crusies

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Cavite: Corregidor Island day trip via Sun Crusies

Corregidor Island is a day trip from Manila which many people take for granted. This former military fortress city devastated during the Second World War stands as a silent witness the brutalities of war. Today it is a monument to the gallantry of our soldiers.

I made another trip to the island today via Sun Cruises which leaves the CCP Complex every morning. The first time I went to Corregidor was way back in high school more than ten years ago, also on Sun Cruises. They have day tour packages which include the catamaran ride to and from Corregidor, tram tour around the island and buffet lunch. Although closer to Bataan, the island is part of Cavite City.

Under the Spanish, Corregidor was a fortress, a penal institution, a signal outpost to warn Manila of hostile ships, and a station for Customs inspection. Hence the name Isla de Corregidor (Island of Correction) from the Spanish corregir, meaning to correct. All ships entering Manila Bay were required to stop and have their documents checked and corrected says one account. Another account mentions it got its name because of the correctional facilities.

During the American period, living in Corregidor was the life for any American or Filipino soldier. It had everything one could find in a city including two cinemas and other entertainment, ample lodging for thousands of GIs including the longest barracks in the world at the time it was built, a commisary, and even taxi and tram services!

In fact, it was a prized piece of real estate. Take note! The U.S. Government had spent more than 150 million dollars for the defense installations on the island which is five times the 2009 national budget in nominal terms! Before the war, 7.5 trillion pesos was inconceivable! And sadly, everything was destroyed during the war.

But what remains today is most definitely worth visiting. As soon as we arrived at the dock after that one hour ferry ride, we boarded tram buses which would take us around the island. Each bus goes to a different location so that there are not too many people in each stop. Our bus first went to the Filipino Heroes Memorial where statues of Manuel L. Quezon and Sergio Osmena stand together with monuments to Filipino guerillas, the Filipino woman, and a several bas relief tableaus of important revolts from the Battle of Mactan to EDSA 1986.

Our next stop was the Japanese War Memorial which serves as a memorial to the lives lost on the Japanese side. Our guide was really good and I most definitely enjoyed all his stories. But I didn't appreciate him claiming that the statue of Guan Yin (Kannon to the Japanese) is a composite of the Virgin Mary and Budhha. Misinformed visitors might just believe that the statue of the Goddess of Mercy is indeed that.

Front there we trooped the the light and sound show at the Malinta Tunnel, the script of which was written by National Artist Lamberto Avellana. The sculptures were rendered by National Artist Napoleon Abueva. This is an optional part of the tour and you'll have to buy tickets for PHP150. But it is highly-recommended if you want to learn more about Corregidor during World War II.

It took ten years to complete Malinta Tunnel (from 1922 to 1932), which got its name from the abundance linta (leeches) that plagued the workers that built it. It had been dug through solid rock and offered complete protection from attacks. During the siege of Corregidor, Gen. Douglas MacArthur set up the headquarters of USAFFE inside the tunnel. It was also the seat of Philippine Commonwealth under President Quezon. It was there, on December 30, 1941, that President Quezon and Vice President Osmena were inaugurated into their second terms.

At the end of the show, the Philippine National Anthem is played. Guides should remind visitors of the solemnity of this part of the show. I was irritated that people kept on snapping photos of the Philippine flag while the anthem was playing. They could have done it after.

Anyway, after the Malinta Experience, we proceeded to the Corregidor Hotel for our buffet lunch. After lunch, we visited three military batteries. A battery in military terms refers to a group of guns placed together in a given area. Among the most popular and most-visited are Battery Way, Battery Hearn and Battery Grubbs.

We also got to drive by the ruins of the Middleside Barracks, the Corregidor Hospital and the Topside Barracks (said to be the longest military barracks in the world at the time it was built) before proceeding to the reconstructed Spanish Lighthouse.

Another important attraction of Corregidor is the Pacific War Memorial. It was built on the highest part of Corregidor's west side to honor both Filipino and American soldiers who fought during the Second World War. Completed in 1968, the memorial cost three million dollars to build.

Our last stop before boarding the ferry was Lorcha Dock from which Gen. MacArthur left for Australia. A statue of MacArthur stands at the dock reminding us of that momentous day in history. And no, he did not utter the famous words "I shall return!" from there. He said those words in Australia.

The day trip to Corregidor is really convenient. And you'll be back in Manila just in time to savor the famous Manila Bay sunset! But I'm definitely coming back for an overnight trip so that I could explore the many interesting sites outside the usual Corregidor tour.

Sun Cruises
CCP Terminal A, CCP Complex
Roxas Boulevard, Manila
(02) 8318140 /(02) 8346857 to 58

Longaniza Lucban

Lucban longaniza from the town of Lucban, Quezon is one of the more popular varieties of longaniza. It is said to be spiced with lots of oregano (either juice of fresh oregano or dried oregano leaves), paprika, and garlic, and its pork fat is chunky. Meat is coarsely-ground but chunks are not as large as Taal. It's on the sour side and falls into the derecado garlicky (or mabawang) category. This longaniza was taken at one of the stalls during the annual Pahiyas Festival.

Main article: Longanizas of the Philippines

Ifugao: Another planting rice tour in Mayoyao this February

Due to insistent public demand, the Pochon Group is organizing another Pfukhay Ad Majawjaw Tour (rice planting in Mayoyao tour) from February 6 to 8, 2009 in Mayoyao, Ifugao. This is part of the group's advocacy to help maintain and preserve the cultural heritage of Ifugao, the rice terraces in particular. Part of the proceeds of the tour will go to the heritage trust fund that will help the people of Mayoyao safe-guard their indigenous culture.

Contact Josh Nalliw at josh21020@gmail.com or +63 906 5308242 for inquiries. Here are my blog entries on the rice harvest tour last year:

Part 1: Trip to Mayoyao, Ifugao
Part 2: Mayoyao Rice Terraces in Ifugao
Part 3: Rice harvest experience in Mayoyao, Ifugao
Part 4: Trekking along the rice terraces of Mayoyao
Part 5: Journey across the Ifugao heartland

How to get to Banaue, Ifugao
Florida Bus has a regular trip from Manila direct to Banaue. It leaves Sampaloc, Manila (Lacson St. cor. S. H. Loyola St.) at 10:45 p.m. Or you can take any bus that goes to Cagayan Valley and get off at Solano, Nueva Vizcaya where you can catch regular trips to Banaue and other towns in Ifugao. From Baguio, KMS Bus Lines and Ohayami Trans leave for Banaue at least twice daily.

How to get to Mayoyao, Ifugao
Take a bus from Manila to Santiago, Isabela (any bus to Cagayan or Isabela passes by Santiago). There are mini-buses from Santiago to Mayoyao which leave thrice daily at 6 a.m., 11a.m. and 3 p.m. From Banaue, there is one daily trip to Mayoyao from Solano which passes Banaue between 12 to 1 p.m.
Related Posts with Thumbnails